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Why Dog Training Guarantees Can Be a Red Flag – The Truth About Quick Fixes and Archie’s Story

Sun, 10 Aug 2025 12:11:21 GMT

The Allure of a “Guaranteed” Trained Dog

It’s tempting: a trainer promises to “fix” your dog’s behaviour in just a few sessions — or your money back. For owners feeling frustrated or desperate, that guarantee can feel like a lifeline.

But here’s the truth: dogs are living, thinking, emotional beings. They’re not factory machines that can be “reprogrammed” with absolute certainty. Every dog has its own personality, history, and learning pace. And because of that, there simply can’t be genuine guarantees in ethical dog training.

Archie’s Story: Why Real Dog Training Isn’t an On/Off Switch

Archie was a beautiful young Labradoodle — all curls, big eyes, and an infectious zest for life. But behind that teddy-bear exterior, he was struggling.

Archie had severe separation anxiety , which meant he panicked whenever left alone. He also had hormone-driven humping during play and found it nearly impossible to regulate his emotions around other dogs. The moment he saw one, his excitement spiked, hormones surged, and that overflow of energy quickly turned into frustration — and from there, into reactivity .

When Maria, Archie’s mum, brought him to us, she hoped we could “fix” these issues and return him as a happy, calm, perfectly behaved dog — as if we could simply flip an on/off switch.

We explained that we use positive reinforcement training , a humane and science-based approach that focuses on teaching emotional regulation, building coping skills, and rewarding the behaviours we want to see. This isn’t about suppressing behaviour; it’s about reshaping it for the long term.

Archie responded beautifully during sessions — learning to check in with his handler, redirect his focus, and manage his impulses better over time. But progress in the training room is only half the story. The other half happens at home.

Unfortunately, Maria found positive reinforcement “too much work” to apply consistently. She wanted a quick turnaround: a dog who could go away for training and come back “fixed”. What she didn’t realise was that our role as trainers is to start the process, lay the foundation, and guide the family—not to replace the family’s role entirely .

Without daily follow-through, training plateaus. Without consistency, progress fades. And without the owner’s active participation, a dog like Archie can’t truly become the well-rounded, confident companion he has the potential to be.

The Hidden Problem with Guarantees

When a trainer promises results and their initial methods don’t work, they’re faced with a choice:

Admit the method is failing, or
Escalate the punishment to force compliance.

Too often, option two is chosen. This might mean:

Increasing the intensity of electric collar shocks
Applying harder leash corrections with a choke chain or prong collar
Using more frequent or prolonged corrections

The mindset becomes, “If the dog isn’t falling in line, it must need a bigger consequence.”

The result? More pain, more fear, and more risk to the dog’s physical and emotional health — all to uphold a promise that should never have been made in the first place.

How Aversive Training Tools Work — and the Injuries They Can Cause

Aversive training tools are designed with one primary goal: to stop unwanted behaviour by applying discomfort or pain .
They don’t teach the dog what to do instead, but rather make the current behaviour unpleasant enough that the dog chooses to avoid it in the future.

The problem?
Dogs don’t just “switch off” behaviours — they make associations.
And if those associations link pain to other dogs, people, or even the owner, they can create lasting fear, anxiety, or aggression.

Let’s break down each tool in detail:

1. Choke Chains

How they work:

A choke chain is a loop of metal links that slides through one end to create a slip collar.
When tension is applied to the leash (either by the handler or the dog pulling), the collar tightens around the dog’s neck.
The tightening continues until the pressure is released — meaning the only “reward” for the dog is the removal of discomfort.
There may be a treat thrown afterwards; however, that is not the reinforcement, as the release of pressure will have a higher value than the treat.

Why trainers use them in guarantee-based programs:

Choke chains can stop pulling or lunging quickly because they cause an immediate aversive sensation.
The dog learns that pulling results in neck compression, so the behaviour is suppressed.

Physical risks:

Tracheal damage — constant tightening can damage the windpipe.
Oesophageal bruising — internal injury to the oesophagus.
Neck sprains or spinal injury — sudden jerks can strain neck muscles or vertebrae.
Increased eye pressure — dangerous for dogs prone to glaucoma or eye conditions.

Psychological impact:

Creates negative associations with whatever the dog sees during the correction (e.g., another dog).
It can increase anxiety, especially in sensitive or fearful dogs.

2. Prong Collars

How they work:

Prong collars consist of metal links with inward-facing prongs that rest evenly around the dog’s neck.
When the leash tightens, the prongs press into the dog’s skin, distributing pressure across multiple points.
The sensation is meant to mimic a “bite” from another dog, but in reality, it’s a mechanical pinching of the skin and underlying tissue.

Why trainers use them in guarantee-based programs:

Prong collars are seen as more “controlled” than choke chains because they don’t slip continuously — but they still create discomfort strong enough to stop behaviour quickly.

Physical risks:

Puncture wounds or skin abrasions from repeated pressure.
Bruising and swelling around the neck.
Nerve damage — prolonged use can damage nerves, leading to neck sensitivity or even partial paralysis in extreme cases.
Muscle tension — chronic stiffness from repeated pinching.

Psychological impact:

It can cause fear-based reactivity if the dog associates the pain with specific triggers (like other dogs, cyclists, or strangers).
Often increases aggression in already frustrated or defensive dogs.

3. Electric Collars (E-Collars)

How they work:

E-collars deliver an electric pulse via contact points on the dog’s neck.
The handler uses a remote control to deliver a shock when the dog performs an undesired behaviour.
The intensity can range from a mild tingle to a strong, painful jolt — but even “low-level” shocks can be aversive, especially for sensitive dogs.

Why trainers use them in guarantee-based programs:

Shocks can be delivered at a distance, making them appealing for “off-leash control” or recall training.
They suppress unwanted behaviours very quickly, allowing the trainer to meet their promised “results.”

Physical risks:

Burns or lesions at the contact points from prolonged wear.
Skin infections where the prongs rub or irritate.
Heart rate spikes — electrical stimulation triggers a physiological stress response.

Psychological impact:

Strong potential for fear-based aggression — the dog may associate the shock with whatever was present when it occurred.
Learned helplessness — the dog shuts down completely, becoming passive to avoid any risk of pain.
It can severely damage the dog-owner relationship , as the handler becomes associated with unpredictable discomfort.

Key takeaway:

While these tools can create quick “obedience,” it’s obedience based on fear and avoidance , not understanding and trust.
In dogs like Archie — already prone to emotional overwhelm — the use of these methods risks making the underlying issues worse, and in some cases, creating aggression where there was none before.

Why Ethical Trainers Don’t Offer Guarantees

A dog’s emotions, genetics, and past experiences all shape how they respond to training.

Owners’ follow-through is essential for maintaining and progressing results.

True behaviour change is a gradual process , not a few-week transformation.

That’s why ethical trainers avoid guarantees — because real, welfare-first dog training requires patience, commitment, and adaptability.

Positive Reinforcement: The Long Game

Positive reinforcement training rewards desired behaviours and sets dogs up for success by managing their environment. This method:

Builds trust between dog and human
Encourages learning and problem-solving
Supports emotional regulation and resilience
Creates a stronger bond without fear-based control

But there’s no “instant fix.” Especially for dogs like Archie with emotional or hormonal influences, it can take months of consistent work at home and in training sessions.

The beauty of this approach is that results are lasting — because the dog learns what to do, not just what to avoid.

Who Guarantees Attract—

Guarantee-based trainers tend to attract owners who:

Prioritise speed over welfare
Want to “get the dog in line” rather than nurture cooperation
Prefer image in public over nurturing cooperation

This is a minority mindset. Most modern dog guardians value trust, empathy, and partnership , seeing training as a shared journey.

Final Thoughts

Archie’s story is a cautionary tale. Positive reinforcement training can work wonders, but only when owners commit to the process. Choosing quick-fix, aversive methods might deliver instant results, but it risks creating long-term problems — including turning a non-aggressive dog into an aggressive one through fear and frustration.

The only guarantee worth making in dog training is this: if you put in the work with patience, empathy, and consistency, your dog will grow into the best version of themselves — and so will your bond together .

Training is not working?

Wed, 16 Oct 2024 11:01:25 GMT

Dog behaviour is more than just a training issues.

Have you ever noticed the conversations about dog trainers, with people discussing how one trainer differs from another? While each trainer may have their own methods and style, there is one constant in every dog's life, regardless of how many trainers they encounter—the dog owner.

Dog owners play the most critical role in shaping their dog's behaviour. While factors like genetics, breed, socialisation, and training are important, it is ultimately the actions, decisions, and environment created by the owner that have the most profound and lasting impact on a dog's behaviour.

A primary way owners influence their dogs is through their own behaviour and consistency . Dogs are highly perceptive creatures that respond to their owners’ emotions, routines, and interactions . An owner who remains calm, confident, and provides clear guidance will generally see these traits reflected in their dog. Conversely, dogs with anxious or inconsistent owners often develop nervous or unpredictable behaviours. Clear expectations and consistent boundaries are essential, and these must come directly from the owner.

Training is another crucial factor that underscores the importance of the owner’s role. Whether a dog is trained by a professional or at home, the owner’s involvement does not end when the trainer leaves. The success of any training programme relies on the owner’s consistency in reinforcing the lessons learnt. Owners who invest the time and effort to maintain training principles see far better results than those who depend solely on the trainer.

Exercise is equally vital in shaping a dog's behaviour. Dogs that do not receive adequate physical activity can become restless, anxious, or even destructive. Regular exercise helps dogs release excess energy and contributes to their overall mental well-being. The responsibility of ensuring a dog receives the appropriate amount of exercise—tailored to the breed, age, and energy level—rests with the owner. Whether through long walks, playtime, or more structured activities like agility training, it is the owner’s commitment to exercise that directly affects their dog’s behaviour.

In addition to physical activity, mental stimulation is critical. Dogs, like humans, need mental challenges to stay engaged and prevent boredom, which can manifest in unwanted behaviours such as excessive barking, chewing, or digging. Providing interactive toys, puzzle games, and regular training exercises helps keep a dog mentally active. Owners play a pivotal role in ensuring that their dog’s mind is as engaged as their body.

Regular professional dog grooming also has a significant impact on a dog's behaviour. Dogs that are groomed professionally on a consistent basis become more accustomed to being handled by different people, which improves their socialisation and tolerance for human touch. This exposure is particularly important for managing a dog's comfort with grooming and handling in general. In contrast, dogs that are not groomed regularly may become more reactive to touch or develop behavioural issues related to discomfort. Again, it is the owner’s responsibility to ensure these experiences are part of the dog’s routine.

The importance of a balanced diet should not be underestimated. A dog's health, energy levels, and overall temperament are closely linked to the quality of their diet. Providing a nutrient-rich, balanced diet helps maintain physical and mental well-being, which in turn positively influences behaviour. On the other hand, poor nutrition can lead to hyperactivity, lethargy, or irritability. Owners must take the necessary steps to ensure their dog is well-nourished and receiving appropriate food for their specific needs.

Gut health is another vital aspect of a dog’s overall well-being that directly affects behaviour. A healthy digestive system supports not only physical health but also emotional balance. When a dog suffers from poor gut health—often indicated by bouts of loose stool or diarrhoea—it can lead to discomfort and irritation. This can result in behavioural changes such as restlessness, irritability, or even anxiety due to the constant discomfort caused by an upset stomach. Owners who take proactive steps to address their dog’s gut health, whether through diet, probiotics, or veterinary care, will likely see improvements not only in their dog’s physical health but also in their behaviour. Healthy digestion and regular, firm stools are signs that a dog is feeling good inside, which translates to better behaviour overall.

While genetics and breed do influence a dog's natural instincts and temperament, it is the owner who has the ability to shape how these traits are expressed. Certain breeds may be predisposed to guarding or herding behaviours, while others may be more sociable. However, through proper training and socialisation , owners can guide these natural tendencies to fit within their expectations and lifestyle.

Socialisation is another critical aspect of a dog’s behavioural development. A well-socialised dog is comfortable in a variety of environments and with different people and animals. While a dog’s natural inclination towards socialisation may vary, it is the owner’s responsibility to ensure that their dog is exposed to positive interactions early on, reinforcing good behaviour in diverse situations.

The home environment also plays a crucial role in shaping a dog's behaviour. A stressful or chaotic household can lead to anxiety or nervousness in dogs, while a calm and structured environment promotes relaxation and confidence. Dogs thrive on routine, and the daily structure their owners provide—from feeding times to walks and play—helps create a sense of security.

Regular veterinary care is another essential factor influencing a dog’s behaviour. Health issues can lead to behavioural changes, such as irritability or anxiety. By ensuring that their dog receives regular check-ups, vaccinations, and preventive care, owners can address potential health problems before they negatively impact the dog's well-being and behaviour.

In conclusion, while various factors—such as genetics, training, exercise, grooming, gut health, and diet—play a role in influencing a dog’s behaviour, it is the dog owner who is the most significant force in shaping their pet’s conduct. Owners who take proactive steps to provide consistent training, regular grooming, proper exercise, a balanced diet, and care for gut health will see the benefits of a well-behaved, healthy, and happy dog. The relationship between an owner and their dog is a reflection of the time, care, and commitment invested, making the owner the defining factor in their dog's overall behaviour.

Board and Train (Intensive Dog Training) Program

Sat, 12 Oct 2024 12:51:01 GMT

Why the Fairy Tails Board and Train Programme is Your Dog’s Best Path to Success

In today’s busy world, many dog parents struggle to dedicate the necessary time and energy to properly train their dogs. Life commitments often make it difficult to maintain the consistency and structure that effective dog training demands. This is where board and train programmes come into play. These intensive dog training courses provide an opportunity to outsource the training to professionals who have the experience, time, and resources to focus entirely on your dog’s development.

At The Fairy Tails, our board and train programme is designed to deliver effective, long-lasting results, but it's important to understand that no training method is a magic solution. The success of any dog training regimen is dependent on several factors, and while our trainers at The Fairy Tails are experts in their craft, results will always be influenced by a variety of elements unique to each dog.

The Importance of Consistency and Repetition in Training

One of the most significant benefits of a board and train programme is the ability to provide consistency and repetition in a controlled environment. At The Fairy Tails, we focus on training behaviours that can be reinforced over time, allowing your dog to build strong associations between commands and actions. Through consistent practice, certain behaviours become muscle memory, transforming learned commands into natural responses.

While this repetition helps instill good habits, it’s crucial for dog parents to understand that training requires ongoing commitment. When your dog returns home, it’s important to maintain the techniques we’ve instilled during their time with us. Without ongoing reinforcement at home, even the best board and train programmes can see their effectiveness diminish over time.

The Key Factors That Influence Training Success

Dog training is never one-size-fits-all. At The Fairy Tails, we know that there are many factors that influence how quickly and effectively a dog responds to training. These factors can vary from dog to dog and include:

Dog’s health: A healthy dog is more likely to respond well to training. Any underlying health issues, such as pain or discomfort, can impede a dog’s ability to focus and learn.
Home life: The environment in which the dog lives plays a huge role in behaviour. A stable, calm home will help the dog feel secure and open to learning.
Routine: A dog that follows a predictable daily routine is more likely to adapt well to new training.
Dog’s parent and their personality: The personality of the dog parent matters more than you might think. A calm, patient, and consistent parent will see better results than one who is frustrated or inconsistent.
Early socialisation: Dogs that have been well-socialised from a young age tend to adapt more easily to training and are less likely to develop anxiety- or fear-based behaviours.
Maternal influences: A dog’s behaviour can be influenced by the temperament and behaviour of their mother, particularly if there were any stress factors during pregnancy.

By taking all of these various factors (to name a few above) into account, we at The Fairy Tails are able to tailor our training approach to each dog, ensuring the best possible outcome for both the dog and their parents.

Why Punishment-Based Training Methods (inflicting pain) Should Be Avoided

There are various dog training methods out there, but not all of them are beneficial in the long term. Punishment-based training is often seen as a quick fix, but it can come with significant drawbacks.

At The Fairy Tails, we prefer to focus on reward-based training, as it leads to healthier, more confident dogs. Punishment-based methods may produce fast results, but they often result in an anxious, fearful dog. Over time, these dogs can become aggressive as a result of their anxiety. The punishment creates a negative association with learning, causing the dog to feel stressed and apprehensive about commands or situations.

Reward-based training, on the other hand, fosters a positive learning environment. This approach encourages dogs to repeat good behaviour because they associate it with positive reinforcement, such as treats or praise. While it may take longer to see results, the outcomes are much more sustainable, as your dog learns to make positive choices rather than responding out of fear. A dog trained with rewards is also less likely to develop aggressive tendencies, leading to a more harmonious relationship between the dog and their family.

The Benefits of Rule-Based and Guided Training

While we advocate for reward-based training, it’s equally important to understand that rule-based training and guidance are key components of a well-rounded training programme. Some dog parents worry that setting boundaries or rules may be too restrictive for their dogs, but in reality, it provides a sense of clarity and security that helps them thrive.

At The Fairy Tails, we create a balanced environment where your dog is gently guided to learn important life skills through structure and consistency. Our approach ensures your dog feels safe and confident, knowing what is expected in different situations. Clear, caring boundaries help your dog feel at ease, understanding their role within the family and fostering a stronger, more harmonious relationship between you and your pet.

Safety First: Our Approach to Training

At The Fairy Tails, we believe in a safety-first approach to training. This means that while we incorporate positive reinforcement, we also prioritise the safety of both the dog and their environment at every stage of the process. Ensuring rules, structure, and control helps maintain a secure and supportive atmosphere where dogs can thrive without risk. Training a dog is never about shortcuts or “magic” fixes; it’s about consistency, repetition, and always considering the safety and well-being of the dog. Our board and train programme is designed to provide long-lasting results that help your dog become a well-rounded, confident companion while keeping safety as the top priority.

Avoid the False Promises of “Magic” Training Methods

In recent years, there has been a growing trend of “one bullet” training methods, which are often marketed as a magical solution for dog behaviour issues. While some techniques can be beneficial, it’s important to understand that not all of these methods are practical or effective in the long term, as behaviour is ever-evolving and growing.

At The Fairy Tails, we believe in a rule based positive approach to training. This means incorporating positive reinforcement while also ensuring that rules and structure are part of the process. Training a dog is never about shortcuts or “magic” fixes; it’s about consistency, repetition, and ongoing reinforcement. Our board and train programme is designed to provide long-lasting results that help your dog become a well-rounded, confident companion, not a temporary solution based on fleeting trends.

Conclusion

The Fairy Tails board and train programme offers a proven, effective solution for dog parents who need support in training their dogs. By focusing on consistency, repetition, and a balanced approach to discipline and reward, we help dogs develop positive behaviours that will last a lifetime.

Dog training is not about finding quick fixes or magical methods—it’s about understanding the individual needs of each dog and working with them in a structured, supportive environment. If you’re ready to see your dog thrive, contact The Fairy Tails today to learn more about our board and train programme.

Dog Parks in London: A Dog's Guide to the City's Green Spaces

Sun, 17 Dec 2023 19:03:57 GMT

Embark on an Exciting Journey to London's Top Dog Parks!

Hey, dog lovers! Amidst London's bustling areas lies a world of joy for our furry friends. This guide dives into the best 10 dog parks in the city, each a haven of lush greenery and jolly freedom. Perfect for locals and visitors, these parks offer unforgettable adventures for all dog breeds. So, grab your leash and let's uncover London's dog-friendly gems!

LONDON'S TOP DOG PARKS

1. HAMPSTEAD HEATH DOG PARK

Where: Hampstead Heath, NW3

Highlights: A vast 790-acre landscape in North London, known for its diverse terrain and ancient woods. Dogs enjoy off-leash freedom and water play in ponds. It's a social hotspot for dog meet-ups.

Main Attractions:

Expansive open areas and woodlands

Dog-friendly swimming spots

Frequent social events for dogs

2. HYDE PARK’S DOG AREA

Where: Hyde Park, W2

Highlights: Among London's Royal Parks, Hyde Park is a canine-friendly spot. The Dog bowl area is a buzzing canine play zone. Winding Lake and dog-friendly cafes add to its charm, especially on busy weekends.

Main Attractions:

Special off-leash area

Dog-welcoming cafes

Close to major landmarks for a complete outing

3. BATTERSEA PARK DOG AREA

Where: Battersea Park, SW11

Highlights: Along the River Thames, this park is a peaceful haven with shaped gardens and paths. Ideal for training or relaxing walks by the river.

Main Attractions:

Beautifully landscaped gardens and riverside paths

Close to the Thames for stunning vistas

Spacious for training and playing

4. RICHMOND PARK

Where: Richmond, TW10

Highlights: London's largest Royal Park, offering diverse landscapes from open spaces to wildlife areas, home to Richmond deer. A favorite for its natural variety.

Main Attractions:

Expansive open areas and diverse terrains

Wildlife encounters, including deer

Numerous trails for exploration

5. VICTORIA PARK

Where: Tower Hamlets, E3

Highlights: Known as 'Vicky Park', this East London favorite boasts two dog-friendly cafes and a scenic lake, hosting dog events year-round.

Main Attractions:

Dog-friendly cafes

Regular community events for dogs

Scenic lake and open play areas

6. GREENWICH PARK

Where: Greenwich, SE10

Highlights: Offers stunning London skyline views. Famous for its historical significance, it's perfect for walks or picnics with dogs.

Main Attractions:

Breath-taking city views

Historical sites like the Royal Observatory

Large off-leash areas

7. REGENT’S PARK

Where: NW1

Highlights: Renowned for landscaped gardens and sports facilities, this park offers varied terrain and views from Primrose Hill. Near the London Zoo.

Main Attractions:

Diverse landscapes and gardens

Primrose Hill for city panoramas

Close to London Zoo and other attractions

8. CLAPHAM COMMON

Where: Clapham, SW4

Highlights: A lively South London spot with three ponds and open spaces for a range of activities, perfect for water-loving dogs.

Main Attractions:

Water features for dogs

Spacious areas for exercise

Vibrant community atmosphere

9. FINSBURY PARK

Where: Harringay, N4

Highlights: A mix of open spaces and woods, with a dog-friendly café. It also has an art gallery and a boating lake.

Main Attractions:

Diverse terrain for walks

Café for dog owners

Cultural attractions like an art gallery and lake

10. TRENT PARK

Where: Enfield, EN4

Highlights: A tranquil North London park with extensive woodland trails and a large lake, ideal for serene, nature-filled walks.

Main Attractions:

Quiet woodland paths

Scenic lake for walks

Peaceful, less crowded setting

A few more to list:

Alexandra Park and Palace

Fryent Country Park

Roe Green Park

Hackney Marshes

Clissold Park

Acton Park

Ravenscourt Park

Kennington Park

Burgess Park

Ruskin Park

London's array of dog parks caters to every dog, from water enthusiasts to explorers. Each park's unique charm makes for memorable moments with your pet. Remember to respect the park rules and the environment. Discover why London is not just for humans but a playground for dogs too!

Call us on 07842116217 for expert dog training guidance. Our professional trainers ensure your dog's safety and wellbeing. Learn why we're the UK's top dog trainers on our website, www.thefairytails.co.uk .

For cute dog photos and videos, check out our Facebook and Instagram. Our Google 5-star reviews reflect our commitment to quality training.

Contact us at 07842116216 or info@thefairytails.co.uk for residential dog training. Schedule a free phone consultation on our website.

Puppy Daycare Benefits: Shaping Happy, Confident Canines

183:941028721 — Wed, 22 Nov 2023 11:21:37 GMT

Introducing a puppy to a dog day care

Puppy Daycare Benefits: Shaping Happy, Confident Canines

Introducing a puppy to daycare at a young age isn't just convenient for pet owners; it's a crucial step in nurturing well-rounded, sociable, and joyful canine companions. In this comprehensive guide, we delve into the multifaceted benefits of early puppy daycare, focusing on routine establishment, enhanced human and puppy socialisation, confidence building, and adaptability development.

Why Choose Puppy Daycare for Socialisation and Health?

Comprehensive Socialisation at Puppy Daycare

At Fairy Tails Puppy Daycare in Hastings, we don't just watch over your puppies; we guide them through a journey of meaningful social interactions and learning. Our daycare stands as an exemplary setting for comprehensive socialisation, crucial in shaping well-adjusted adult dogs.

In this nurturing environment, puppies learn much more than just play. They are gradually introduced to a myriad of social cues, helping them interpret various canine body languages and signals. This education is vital, as understanding these subtle forms of communication is key to developing good social skills and preventing misunderstandings among dogs.

Our skilled trainers ensure that puppies learn to respect boundaries and engage appropriately with their peers. This interaction isn't limited to just a single breed or size; instead, we expose them to a diverse range of breeds, sizes, and temperaments. Such exposure is instrumental in building a well-rounded canine citizen, capable of interacting confidently and calmly in different social scenarios.

We firmly believe that early socialisation is the cornerstone of preventing behavioural issues such as fear, aggression, or anxiety in puppies. By encountering a variety of situations in a safe and controlled environment, puppies learn to navigate the world with confidence. These early experiences are not just about preventing negative behaviours but also about fostering positive traits like empathy, patience, and adaptability.

At Fairy Tails, our goal is to lay a strong foundation for each puppy's social development. We create a space where they can explore, learn, and grow into well-behaved, sociable dogs. This commitment to comprehensive socialisation is our promise to you and a gift to your furry family member, ensuring they lead a happy, healthy, and socially enriched life.

Effective Energy Management for Puppy Health

Effective Energy Management for Puppy Health At our daycare, we don't just oversee playtime; we engineer it for optimal puppy health and happiness. Structured playtime and activities are meticulously planned to cater to both the physical and mental stimulation needs of your growing puppy. This thoughtful approach promotes better health and more balanced behaviour, which is especially crucial for puppies in their formative stages. Understanding that puppies possess boundless energy and curiosity, our professional dog trainers design activities that channel these traits into positive, health-enhancing experiences. Our play sessions are interspersed with rest periods, ensuring that your puppy's energy is expended in a healthy, controlled manner, avoiding overstimulation. The activities vary from interactive games that boost physical fitness to cognitive challenges that sharpen their mental faculties. These exercises are not only fun but also instrumental in building a foundation for well-behaved, sociable adult dogs. By engaging in these structured activities, puppies learn essential social cues and behaviours, which are critical for their overall development.

Exposure to Varied Environments for Puppy Development

Our daycare is a melting pot of experiences, vital for nurturing a puppy's adaptability. Regular exposure to varied environments and stimuli is key to their development. This diversity ranges from different sounds and sights to varied textures and scents, all within a safe and controlled setting. Such exposure equips puppies with the confidence to navigate new situations with ease, laying the groundwork for a well-adjusted, fearless adult dog. It's not just about acclimatization; it's about building confident explorers for life.

Routine Establishment for Behavioural Training

Our daycare emphasizes the power of a consistent routine in fostering a sense of security and aiding behavioural training. By maintaining a structured schedule, we minimize confusion and anxiety in puppies, which is pivotal for their emotional well-being. This consistency plays a crucial role in quicker house training, as puppies learn to anticipate and adapt to regular feeding, play, and rest times. A predictable routine not only instils a sense of security but also lays a strong foundation for future training and discipline.

Enhanced Human Socialisation for Puppies

At our daycare, regular interaction with a diverse range of humans is a cornerstone of our program, vital for building a puppy's trust and comfort with people. This varied human contact, ranging from our caring staff to different visitors, plays a significant role in enhancing a puppy's social development. It teaches them to be comfortable and confident around various people, laying the groundwork for a well-socialized, friendly adult dog who can adapt seamlessly to human-centric environments.

Developing Adaptability in Puppies

Our daycare is more than just a fun place; it's a training ground for adaptability. Puppies attending our facility consistently show an enhanced ability to adjust to new environments, an essential skill for urban living or families who travel frequently. By exposing them to a variety of settings and experiences, we equip them with the resilience and flexibility needed to confidently face the diverse challenges of modern lifestyles, ensuring they grow into adaptable, well-adjusted dogs.

Fostering Independence in Puppies

Daycare plays a pivotal role in nurturing independence in puppies, an essential step in their development. By providing a space where they can spend time away from their owners in a safe and supportive environment, daycare helps significantly reducing the risk of separation anxiety. This independence training teaches puppies to be comfortable and self-assured even when alone, ensuring they develop into well-rounded, confident dogs. It’s not just about giving owners a break; it’s about instilling a healthy sense of self-reliance in our canine companions.

Long-Term Behavioural Benefits

The experiences puppies gain at daycare extend far beyond immediate enjoyment; they lay the foundation for long-term behavioural benefits. Regular interaction, diverse experiences, and structured routines contribute to shaping more manageable and receptive adult dogs. This early exposure to varied stimuli and socialisation opportunities equips them with the skills to navigate the world with ease, leading to well-adjusted dogs who are adaptable, sociable, and responsive to training. It's an investment in their future, ensuring a lifetime of positive behaviours and harmonious human-dog relationships.

Safe Growth Environment

Our daycare offers more than just fun and learning; it's a haven of safety. By providing a controlled environment, we significantly reduce the risk of accidents, ensuring that your puppy's growth and exploration happen within the bounds of a secure space. Our vigilant supervision, coupled with thoughtfully designed play areas, means that risks are minimised. This attention to safety allows puppies to freely discover and develop without the hazards they might encounter in less controlled settings, making our daycare a secure foundation for their growth and well-being.

Observational Opportunities for Staff

The attentive eyes of our daycare staff are not just for ensuring safety; they are key in understanding each puppy's unique temperament. Through regular observation, our staff gain valuable insights into a puppy's behaviour, social interactions, and learning patterns. This in-depth understanding allows them to identify potential areas for improvement and provide personalized guidance. These observations are shared with owners, offering a more comprehensive view of their puppy's development and suggesting tailored strategies for further training and growth. It's a partnership aimed at bringing out the best in every puppy.

Support for Working Pet Parents

Our daycare stands as a vital support system for working pet parents. We understand the stress and worry that come with leaving puppies alone for long periods. By providing a nurturing and engaging environment for your puppy, we alleviate these concerns. You can focus on your workday knowing that your puppy is not just safe but also thriving, socialising, and learning in a loving setting. This support extends beyond physical care; it’s about giving you peace of mind and ensuring that your bond with your puppy remains strong, even when life gets busy.

Long-lasting Friendships

Daycare is more than a place for play; it's a breeding ground for long-lasting friendships. In this social hub, puppies have the unique opportunity to form significant bonds with their peers. These early friendships play a crucial role in their social development, teaching them about cooperation, empathy, and the joys of companionship. The connections made here often extend beyond the daycare walls, as puppies who grow up together build a foundation for enduring social bonds. These relationships enrich their lives, offering comfort, play, and mutual understanding as they journey

Conclusion

Choosing to introduce your puppy to daycare is a transformative decision, one that significantly influences their overall development. At Fairy Tails Dog Daycare in Hastings, we are committed to shaping young canines into sociable, adaptable, and confident adult dogs. The benefits of our daycare extend far beyond mere convenience; they lay the cornerstone for a happy, well-adjusted life for your furry family member.

To explore how your puppy can thrive with our specialised daycare services, visit us at www.thefairytails.co.uk . For a more personal touch, feel free to call us at 07842116216 . Together, we can embark on this enriching journey, fostering a bright, joyful, and healthy future for your beloved puppy. Let's nurture their potential and watch them flourish in the loving environment of Fairy Tails Daycare.

Building a relationship with your dog

Sat, 11 Feb 2023 10:54:16 GMT

Building relationships

7 core emotions that you should nurture or avoid - positive (+) or negative (-):

+ Seeking is anticipatory behaviour.

+ Play creates joy and happiness and can support relationship building and positive associations.

+ Lust is about social encounters for reproduction, often driven by hormones.

+ Care is about safety and trust, and the relationships we build with our dogs.

- Rage is anger , frustration leads to anger and rage.

- Fear will trigger fight -or- flight responses.

- Panic/grief will trigger fight and flight responses.

What we want versus what the dog wants

A good relationship requires knowing what you want as a handler and what the dog wants as a dog. Plan training for mutual benefit, combining the two.

Dogs usually want food, affection, and play. If done right, play can be a powerful reward. Finding out what motivates your dog and how to encourage him to play is crucial to building a good relationship.

However, play increases arousal, so encouraging the dog to be still, focused, and controlled in order to play again reinforces the behaviour you want. Games can teach self-control, impulse control, and frustration skills while keeping the dog and handler entertained.

Why relationships break down

Two main causes of relationship breakdown are: Frustration and abandonment.

Abandonment

This happens when a dog is left alone when he is stressed or scared. Support from people helps dogs get over their fears. If you leave a dog when he can't handle things, all he learns is how not to handle things. There's a balance between making a dog strong and being there for him when he needs you.

It's easy for humans to put pressure on our dogs when training, but this is usually bad for the relationship we're trying to build.

Frustration and over-arousal

Over-excited dogs can't think. If thwarted, they can become agitated and enraged.

It's often recommended to overlook a dog's "bad" behaviour and wait for him to behave properly. If the dog is likely to behave well and receive a lot of reinforcement, this can solve certain training issues. In contrast, if the "wrong" behaviour surpasses the "good," there are few reinforcement chances and long periods without reinforcement.

The dog becomes increasingly frustrated and associates that feeling with you. Here, a handler must apply both guided and unguided learning, such as lure and reward and shaping. Both of these methods—or a combination of both—can help individual dogs in specific situations.

Providing emotional support

We need to support dogs as they learn and develop the independence to manage their own behaviour. There are many situations where a dog might not be able to help himself. However, you can support him and help him develop resilience, confidence, and impulse control.

Resilience helps dogs cope with new, unexpected, and stressful situations. Resilience matters. No matter how socialised a puppy is, some situations will scare him. He has to rehabilitate so these negative experiences don't affect him.

Games for relationship building

Fun with your dog builds relationships! Working together in a good mood is fun, stimulates learning, and helps you bond.

Casual retrieve

This game rewards training with the retrieve. The dog's inherent desire to chase the toy is linked to control since he must follow the game's rules. It also teaches the dog to give up objects readily, preventing thieving and resource guarding.

Hesitant retrievers

Use two toys to play this game with dogs who don't want to give up the toy. Make sure they are equal or identical.

Playing tuggy

You can play tug, but you have to "win" to show that you are the pack leader. It's a game for two users on a team. So, it's great for making connections and building relationships.

Building value (in some cases only)

When a dog has easy access to a toy that has been left lying around, the item loses its appeal. The fact that the dog has limited access to it raises its worth, as well as the dog's motivation to earn it – if dog is not motivated.

Certified Dog Trainer?

Wed, 08 Feb 2023 14:34:33 GMT

Am I a qualified, accredited, registered, approved, certified , and listed dog trainer?

What does it mean?

Debunking the social media fad.

Why aren't Office of Qualification (OFQUAL) registered dog training courses offered by dog training education providers?

Dog training is an important aspect of pet ownership, and many pet owners look for professional help to train their dogs. In England, the dog training industry has grown rapidly, but many education providers have yet to offer OFQUAL-registered courses despite this growth. In this blog, we will explore some of the reasons why this is the case and, furthermore explore the possibility of regulating the profession once we have OFQUAL standard education.

Lack of Recognition: One of the reasons why dog training education providers are not offering OFQUAL-registered courses is that the industry is not yet recognised as a formal profession. This lack of recognition means that there is no clear framework for regulating dog training courses, making it difficult for education providers to offer OFQUAL-registered courses. Therefore, it is difficult for businesses to make a sound investment in their staff's qualifications.

Cost: Another reason why dog training education providers are not offering OFQUAL-registered courses is the cost involved. To become an OFQUAL-registered provider, education providers must meet strict standards and go through a rigorous accreditation process. This process is costly and time-consuming, and many education providers may be unwilling to invest the resources required to offer OFQUAL-registered courses.

Lack of Awareness: Another reason dog training education providers are not offering OFQUAL-registered courses is that many pet owners may not know the importance of working with a trainer with an OFQUAL-registered education background. This lack of awareness means that pet owners may not understand the benefits of working with OFQUAL-registered trainer courses and may not be willing to pay a premium for this level of training. On the other hand, dog grooming is an OFQUAL-registered course, which has changed the profession without increasing the cost burden on consumers.

Diversity of Training Methods: Finally, the diversity of training methods used in the dog training industry is another reason why education providers are not offering OFQUAL-registered courses. There are many different approaches to training dogs, and each approach may have its own unique qualifications and certifications. This diversity makes it difficult for education providers to offer a single, unified, OFQUAL-registered course that covers all of the different training methods. However, there is nothing to stop the education providers from providing courses unique to the skill set they aim to develop. These unique courses can be registered in their own right to diversify the industry.

Establishing Industry Standards: Currently, there are no set standards due to education providers' refusal to offer OFQUAL-registered courses, which should bring uniformity to the industry. The first step in regulating the dog training industry in England is establishing industry standards through the OFQUAL route, using the dog grooming industry as a template. These standards should cover training methodology, qualifications, and facilities. It will ensure that all dog trainers provide the same quality service, regardless of location or affiliation. It will drive down the cult-like mentality among trainers and their consumers.

Licensing Requirements: The next step is introducing licencing requirements for dog trainers in England. This will help to ensure that only OFQUAL-qualified and experienced trainers are providing training services. The licencing requirements should include a minimum level of training and experience and regular continuing education requirements to ensure that trainers stay up-to-date with the latest research. Licensing requirements can use the dog daycare industry as a template, which has transformed the dog daycare landscape. The star rating from dog daycare is another example of the benefit of using experience and CPD as a baseline to advance towards a 5-star rating.

Regular Inspections: To ensure that dog training facilities (such as village halls or training centres) are meeting the established industry standards, regular inspections should be conducted. to ensure basic safety protocols such as written exercise action plans, fire safety, first aid coverage, emergency safety protocols, risk assessments, and meeting other health and safety standards. Similar inspections can take place on one-on-one dog training visits, where inspectors can accompany a trainer on a visit to the client's property to assess the safety standards. The results of these inspections should be publicly available to help pet owners make informed decisions when choosing a dog trainer, which local councils can manage.

Accreditation businesses (commonly operate as "gateway businesses"): Where there is an opportunity to make money, someone will grab it, and that is how entrepreneurs shine. It begs the question: if other businesses can ordain dog trainers to be the noble knights of the dog training world, then why is there so much disagreement? Why can't we all become noble knights with the armour of accreditation behind us? The answer lies somewhere between public law and private law. All public bodies are regulated through public law or administrative law. Therefore, there are plenty of safety switches and mechanisms to ensure the sanctity of legal obligations is protected. You can even sue public bodies for not doing their job, i.e., not protecting consumers. On the other hand companies or business operate through law of contract in private law. The law of contract is not only flexible, but it also depends on one’s creativity and genius to make it work and create a smooth transaction. In contracts, the only remedy is often actual damages where there is a causality. Third parties are often excluded from claiming any damage. Consumers have zero protections against these gateway businesses, where contracts only exist between gateway businesses and trainers. Consumers only get to see the logos and badges, which are not helpful if you are trying to claim damages.

Moreover, who is looking after the conduct of gateway business? Public bodies are scrutinised by the public, but who scrutinises the conduct of gateway businesses that claim to uphold ethics or standards?

Transparency is built into public law, whereas privacy is the bedrock of private law—something to think about.

In conclusion, the dog training industry in England is growing rapidly, but many education providers have yet to offer OFQUAL-registered courses. The reasons for this include the lack of recognition for the industry as a formal profession, the cost involved in becoming an OFQUAL-registered provider, a lack of awareness among pet owners, and the diversity of training methods used in the industry. To encourage education providers to offer OFQUAL-registered courses, it will be important to increase recognition of the industry as a formal profession, to raise awareness among pet owners about the importance of working with an OFQUAL-registered provider, and to create a more unified framework for the regulation of dog training courses. Regulating the dog training industry in England is equally essential to ensuring that pet owners receive high-quality training services and that their dog trainers are safe. By establishing industry standards and licencing requirements, conducting regular inspections, implementing consumer protection measures, and promoting education and awareness, the dog training industry in England can be regulated effectively.

For now, badges are the new normal and have become fashion accessories for dog trainers to flaunt around on social media, and the more, the better, is a modern mantra. So, dog trainers are now in a mad rush to add more badges to their promotions instead of giving their customers more value. Many dog trainers now belong to a cult rather than science and engage in character assassination instead of an intelligent or eloquent debate.

Dogs reacting to the noises and activities that occur by the door

Tue, 13 Dec 2022 15:22:28 GMT

Protocol for desensitisation and counterconditioning to noises and activities that occur by the door

Some dogs that are unable to be left alone become worried if there is any activity at the door. Some fearfully aggressive, protective, or territorial doggies will respond when someone rings the doorbell or knocks on the door. Because the reaction level at the door is a crucial factor in the dog's escalating anxiety, clients must frequently work independently on desensitising and counterconditioning the dogs to noises and activities at the door. This protocol is intended to assist you in teaching your dog to relax and remain calm in such situations. As with the other protocols, you should have finished "Protocol for Basics and Relaxation" before proceeding.

Place the dog in the middle of the room, with its side towards the door. This enables the dog to utilise its peripheral vision without drawing its full focus to the entrance. It is ideal to practise this protocol with two individuals: one as the rewarder and the other as the stranger. Initially, it is optimal if the stranger is someone the dog is comfortable with.

The purpose of the protocol is to teach the dog to relax in response to a cue, regardless of who is at the door. Some individuals prefer allowing the dog to bark once or twice as a warning before remaining quiet. This may be conceivable, but for some dogs, simply reacting to this brief exposure may trigger a cascade of undesirable and inappropriate behaviour. It is not enough for the dog to be sitting or sleeping peacefully; it must not exhibit any bodily indicators of physiological stress (shaking, trembling, panting, salivating, increased heart rate, averted gaze, frequent eye movements, and so on). Relaxed animals can learn, and animals who find the tasks enjoyable learn more quickly.

When the dog is relaxed and sitting or lying down, encourage the stranger to continue knocking softly and briefly (see the task list). Before practising with the dog, you should review the plan with the stranger so that you can communicate without confusion. This helps to prevent dog anxiety. As soon as you hear or anticipate hearing the knock, cue your dog to look at you. As soon as it looks at you, praise it with "Good boy (girl)!" and give it a treat. You can treat the dog if it glances briefly at the door but does not otherwise appear distressed and either spontaneously returns its gaze to you or responds to a mild signal from you (pursing your lips, clearing your throat, etc.). If the dog reacts or stares at the door, call the dog to you while moving away from the door and knocking more softly. If this fails and the dog continues to respond, remove the dog from the room, practise some exercises from basics protocols when the dog is calm enough to do so effectively, and try again with a softer knock and greater space between the dog and the door. Use of phone to communicate with the friend is advisable.

If you must finally remove the dog from the room, you will be most effective if you can do it verbally. If your dog does not respond to a verbal instruction to "come" when it is agitated, you will need a lead to bring it to a more appropriate place. If you continue to work with the dog when reacting, it will eventually learn to associate the vocal command with the lead direction, allowing you to gradually work off-leash. To correct incorrect door behaviour, you can use a long-distance leash as long as you are with the dog.

You can also use the ring doorbell or any other chime, which can be controlled by your phone or a secondary button in your pocket, and begin with the volume set to a very low level. Use a mat as a marker to sit/relax. Repeat each step as long as required.

Ding dong or ring = treats

Ding dong or ring = Sit + treats
Ding dong or ring = Sit + Down + treats

Ding dong or ring = Sit + Down + time delay + treats

Ding dong or ring = Sit + Down + time delay + Door opening + treats

Ding dong or ring = Sit + Down + time delay + Door opening + time delay + treats

Ding dong or ring = Sit + Down + time delay + Door opening + repeat bell noise + treats

Ding dong or ring = Sit + Down + time delay + Door opening + repeat bell noise + time delay + treats

As your dog's behaviour improves, raise the volume. This is also effective for dogs who react to the people on the other side of the door rather than the sounds.

The following exercises will assist you in training your dog to respond more correctly at the door. Remember that you can use a baby gate to keep the dog in a room away from the door, preventing a battle of wills at the entrance. If the dog is less agitated in gated environments, you can advance through the programme more rapidly since the dog will not continue to learn and reinforce its incorrect behaviour.

Dog's Task

Dog sits and relaxes while:

Person knocks briefly and softly Person knocks softly for 5 seconds

Person knocks softly for 10 seconds Person knocks moderately and briefly

Person knocks moderately for 5 seconds

Person knocks moderately for 10 seconds Person knocks normally, briefly

Person knocks normally for 5 seconds

Person knocks normally for 10 seconds

Person knocks loudly for 5 seconds

Person knocks loudly for 10 seconds

Person bangs on the door briefly Person bangs on the door for 5 seconds

Person bangs on the door for 10 seconds

Anti-anxiety medications may help some dogs that other- wise are unable to succeed in this program. Remember, if it is decided that medication could benefit your dog, you need to use it in addition to the behaviour modification, not in- stead of it.

Frustration in dogs - dog training

Sun, 06 Nov 2022 10:16:34 GMT

Leash reactivity is often the result of frustration

Disclaimer : The following blog is not ideology-based training; it deals with real-life problems observed in dogs and is based on science and research from various literature resources.

Frustration is a negative emotional state implicated in a range of canine behaviour problems.

Frustration has been variously defined as an emotional response that occurs when a predetermined expectation is violated; a dog's response to an unexpected reduction or omission of an incentive; and mild activation of the reactive aggression (RAGE) system, which increases in proportion to the intensity of the thwarted desire. Frustration can arise in a variety of situations, such as when rewards are absent, reduced, or delayed; when one is prevented from obtaining or retaining a resource; when barriers to autonomous control exist, such as when accessing an incentive or avoiding an aversive, or when personal space and territory are invaded. In varying degrees, frustration has been connected to aggressive behaviour displays, including redirected aggression. Barrier frustration can result in redirected and/or violent behaviours when a dog is prevented from acquiring the desired stimulus, such as by a door or leash. Within the umbrella phrase "separation-related disorders" in dogs, frustration has been identified as a fundamental emotional differentiation. Frustration and the development of repetitive and compulsive behaviour disorders have been linked. In fact, a lack of autonomous control over the environment is present in all of these circumstances and is a contextual identifier of frustration. Frustration has been linked to the execution of displacement and repetitive behaviours, such as stereotypes. It is hypothesised that frustration evolved to stimulate responses when an individual is confronted with threats to obtaining, protecting, and maintaining resources. Since frustration is considered a negative emotional state, frustration-related behaviours in dogs are regarded as a potential welfare issue.

As with other affective states, impatience manifests as a distinct emotional reaction, mood (period of irritation), and personality feature (consistent behavioural predisposition over time and location). These types have been studied in the human literature, such as state vs trait anger (including some components of frustration and a scale devised by Harrington to measure trait-level frustration tolerance/intolerance) (i.e., frustration tendencies). Research on frustration in dogs has tended to focus on the immediate emotional response rather than the disposition associated with mood or temperament. Considering frustration in the daily lives of owned dogs and the consistency of response across contexts may shed light on a more general disposition than a context-specific disposition. When diagnosing an issue in the field of clinical dog behaviour, it is crucial to understand both the reason and the likely underlying emotion (e.g., distinguishing fear/anxiety from impatience) so that a particular treatment may be administered. In addition, it is vital to distinguish between a dog who exhibits irritation in a single challenging situation (state level) and a dog who is generally frustration intolerant (trait level), as they may require distinct treatment approaches.

In the daily lives of companion dogs, the existence of physical barriers such as doors or being constrained on a leash, both of which prevent a dog from getting the desired resource, can provoke frustration. A wanted resource may be a social (person or conspecific) or non-social (pursuit of prey, food access, etc.) stimulus. In addition to fear, frustration may occur when access to safety is denied. In circumstances where expectations are not satisfied owing to an absent, diminished, or delayed reward, frustration may also occur. The absence of a reward may arise when an owner fails to provide the dog with access to a resource it anticipated (e.g., an owner may be in a rush to return from a walk and not allow the dog off lead to play with a conspecific as usual). Reduced reward happens when a dog receives less than expected, although departures from a predetermined schedule may result in frustration from a delayed reward (e.g., if a dog is walked or fed at a later time than usual). Situations in which there is competition over a restricted resource (e.g., one bone and two dogs vying for it; the shoe the dog wants to chew, but the owner wants it back) can also result in frustration due to the fear of resource loss. Territory and personal space are also essential resources linked with higher autonomy; hence, if a dog perceives a potential incursion into his/her personal space and/or territory, frustration may ensue. In fact, a lack of autonomous control over the environment is present in all of these circumstances and is a context-specific indicator of frustration.

Given that frustration exists to energise responses in order to boost concentrated efforts to achieve a desired goal, frustration-related behaviours are likely to vary depending on the target. However, typical component features of frustration include relatively high physiological arousal, communication of the desire for autonomy through aggressive displays (e.g., snarling, growling, snapping, biting), and behavioural tendencies associated with increased efforts, such as pulling/lunging on lead or digging at a barrier to access the desired resource. These efforts may be accompanied by vocalisations (such as whining, barking, and growling), and if the goal cannot be accomplished, redirected (e.g., rapid snatching of the lead) or displacement (e.g., sniffing, scratching, spinning, and tail chasing) behaviours may be noticed. Frustration may play a role in the long-term development of some repetitive and compulsive behaviours. Given these responses, it is not surprising that frustration is frequently implicated in many of the behavioural issues affecting dogs. Because of the type and severity of frustration-related behaviour, there is also a risk of others being injured. Despite the importance of these issues, the identification of individual dogs with low frustration tolerance is currently based on instruments with aspects only vaguely related to frustration [such as "self-assurance" and "amicability" on the Monash Canine Personality Scale] or subjective trainer evaluation. The absence of a more precise and objective assessment tool has an impact on the evaluation of treatments intended to address these concerns, and is therefore a key hurdle to the field's growth.

Frustration breakdown

General frustration would be predicted to be experiencing and displaying signs of frustration regularly and in various aspects of their daily life. Interventions which focus on the development of general frustration tolerance may be particularly valuable. It must be recognised that many chronic painful conditions manifesting as behavioural problems go unrecognised.

Barrier frustration/perseverance would be predicted to persevere in attempting to achieve a specific goal, despite the presence of a physical barrier and at such a time, an owner may find them difficult to distract/interrupt. Classic example of the barrier frustration is dog barking at the door knock. Interventions focused on building tolerance around a gradient of barriers may be useful in this instance.

Unmet expectations would be predicted to struggle to cope in situations where an expectation is not met, such as a routine change (absent or delayed reward). Classic example is a dog barking at other dogs due to frustration of not being able to meet (reminds me of Aldo a mix breed). We would suggest that interventions focused on creating positive associations with change may be valuable.

Autonomous control might be expected to display problems (which may include aggressive behaviours) where there is a loss of freedom to act independently (due to restraint or confinement) and when there are threats to resources such as territory, food, or toys. For example, dog is biting its lead when owners stop to chat with someone or food aggression. Interventions based on teaching dogs to form positive associations with restraint, handling, confinement, and approach when in possession of resources may be useful here.

Frustration coping would be predicted to struggle to relax and settle when faced with a situation where they cannot achieve their goal. For example, the dogs who always want to play with other dogs and don't how to stop. Interventions which focus on teaching dogs how to cope with such disappointments may be most appropriate.

There may be a relationship between frustration and impulsivity, but this remains to be determined. Impulsivity is characterised by a predisposition for quick, unplanned reactions without proper thought of the implications. In contrast to impulsivity, which refers to the general executive control of behaviour and cognition, frustration is a general emotional state. Low frustration tolerance and impulsivity are frequently correlated in humans, especially in relation to aggressive behaviour, according to a considerable body of research on the subject. Individuals that are more impulsive may find themselves in more frustrating circumstances due to poor decision making. This could be due to a failure to consider and hence foresee the repercussions of their actions, or it could be due to variances in sensitivity to reward or punishment.

The finding that younger dogs tended to have greater frustration intolerance is consistent with the finding that younger dogs exhibit higher levels of impulsivity and positive activation (i.e., they have greater sensitivity to rewards). These two characteristics will make individual dogs more prone to experiencing frustration. Younger dogs are more engaged in exploration, and obstacles to exploration, such as being on a leash, can lead to increased frustration. As they age, they may acquire expectations based on what generally occurs in a specific situation; as a result, they may experience less dissatisfaction as their expectations are reasonable and substantially realised.

It is also likely that intact/unneutered dogs develop a higher tolerance for frustration since they are often denied access to a sexual partner in our society. Alternately, entire dogs may be managed more carefully in certain circumstances, such as with other dogs, to prevent unintended breeding or encounter with the opposite sex, therefore, increasing frustration tolerance. It is difficult to arrive at definitive conclusions for entire dogs as there are other forces at play.

Another potentially surprising relationship is the weak to a moderate positive correlation between the reported frequency of exposure to frustrating situations and the dog's ability to deal with frustration. There are a number of possible explanations for this: a dog owner may find it difficult to manage the overt behaviours of a frustrated dog and therefore avoid situations that may trigger these responses, resulting in a decreased frequency of exposure; or a dog may become accustomed to frustrating situations if they are encountered frequently. This further emphasises the need for finding effective, evidence-based therapies to assist in the treatment and even prevention of this problem.

There is a trend where frustration decreases as the size of the dog increases, i.e., smaller dogs are more frustrated. This size-related effect is consistent with aggressiveness toward people (as reported by Martínez et al).and the prevalence of behaviour problems (reported by McGreevy et al). Whilst it has been suggested that this may have a genetic basis, there are other explanations for this observation. Management may play a role, with smaller dogs possibly more likely to be lifted/carried or physically restrained compared to their larger counterparts, which may lead to increased frustration-related issues related to autonomous control. Another possible explanation is that frustration-related behaviours and associated risks may be better tolerated (and therefore not addressed) by owners of smaller dogs compared to owners of larger dogs (as found by Guy et al).

Fear and anxiety in dogs

Thu, 20 Oct 2022 10:47:58 GMT

Why, what and how for dog training

Anxiety and stress

Disclaimer – This is not ideology-driven training. We aim to deal with real world problems with real world solutions.

FEAR VS ANXIETY

Fear

Fear is essential for survival. In a famine, the resource-guarding dog would live. The chaser can hunt more effectively. The territorial dog would guard the puppies. The fearful dog is the first to notify the group of danger. It flees, enhancing its chances of survival. Fearless wild creatures do not survive. We believe that "they should not be afraid," and we wish to "teach" the dog not to be afraid. Emotions rule the dog, and you can't 'train' someone not to be afraid. The dog has no control over his emotions. However, YOUR reaction to the 'event,' or your fear, controls the dog. Fear reactivity is a visceral 'reflex', which means that dogs do not strive to control their feelings. They simply have a reflex reaction. It has nothing to do with the dog's "wants" or level of obedience. It makes no difference whether they are excellent or terrible.

Fear has targets

Afraid of other dogs, men with beards, noises, and hands. The dog's fears are easy to figure out. Dogs in pain fall in this category. When they hurt, dogs hide under things. They don't know how to understand pain. They can't talk about or understand pain. When a dog growls, it turns away. It wants to make more room. Fear makes everyone in a group afraid. They are afraid of EVERYTHING.

Anxiety/Stress

Dog Anxiety is a state in which the dog reacts to a stimulant that causes fear or threatens survival. Anxiety is an involuntary emotional response. Anxiety is a chemical/physical reaction to a target/trigger that causes a reaction in the Fear/Flight section of the brain. Anxiety is not a cognitive reaction because the primal portion of the brain cannot think but only reacts. Dogs do not 'think' about managing their reactions.

They are concerned about the environment and the future, always glancing about, constantly on watch. Concerned about 'what is to come.' Their pupils have dilated. They lock their gaze. It is frequently the most reactive, yet in the end, it is 'frequently' the least likely to respond. It's tough to foresee what they're worried about, and it might change. Anxiety is the fear of what is to come. They may respond aggressively. Separation anxiety is the fear that they will be alone forever.

Reactivity isn't the same as aggression. We only notice it when it is rude or bothersome behaviour. Dogs are imitators and will feed off of your body language; they can read your pheromones and chemicals. Offensive behaviour is just an "overreaction" when a dog hasn't learnt a better behaviour. It does not begin with aggression, and Offensive behaviour is never static; it is always decreasing or accelerating. You can teach your dog coping skills, and dogs may learn to control their emotions. Anxiety is a vague encompassing term and therefore will be different for each dog as each is unique.

Reactivity

Dogs communicate by their reactions. A dog with normal behaviour provides warnings to avoid aggression. It's merely noise and body language indicating stay away.' Reactions are just feelings. What exactly is a Reactive Dog? It is a dog's 'overreaction/drama' to a circumstance the dog cannot handle. It's a dog's method of making space when it doesn't know what else to do. The dog was never trained not to bite. No or little impulse control training. Inadequate socialisation. Punishment obscures feelings. You can't tell when your dog is going to bite. Different Reactions in Different Environments

FEAR AND EMOTIONAL CONFLICT - A physical response

Dogs experience three emotions:

Pleasure - Play, social engagement, hunting, chasing, and eating are all examples of pleasure.
Fear - resource guarding, stranger aggression, separation anxiety OCD, phobias, and jealousy
Hostility - Territoriality, resource protection, sexual challenge, and internal defence (the dog's body gets ready for battle or flight) are all signs of hostility.

Dogs are unable to feel fear and pleasure simultaneously. Different parts of the brain control pleasure and fear. Many dogs won't even consider reacting until humans start to feel stressed. After all, we want to "teach" the dog not to be fearful because we believe "they shouldn't be afraid." However, it is impossible to "train" someone to be fearless. The emotion is not under the dog's control. The dog is controlled by emotion. However, THE DOG IS CONTROLLED BY YOUR REACTION TO THE "ACTION" OR YOUR FEAR. Your dog's inherent defensive systems are triggered by stress, which causes the heart to beat faster, and the dog becomes more agitated, ready to run away or fight. The dog will get weaker if those stores of the coping mechanism are depleted. Their ability to fight against illness and disease may decline, and their chances of getting sick increase. Long-term, persistent fear can lead to physical and psychological illness developments. It might cause a dog's life to be cut short or negatively affect life quality. It can lower the immunological response of your dog, making him more susceptible to opportunistic illnesses. It can change the blood supply to crucial organs, and It can also lead to the emergence of obsessive behaviours, allergies, stomach aches and diarrhoea.

IT'S ALL ABOUT THE EMOTIONS

You should endeavour to change your emotional response to a situation which drives your dog's behaviour. Teach your good dog manners as well as coping abilities. We may mistake a dog's emotions, meaning, intent, and body language according to our perceptions. Attempt to control the visceral reaction. Stop teaching the dog to react by simply yelling at it. Give the dog a new "survival skill." Build relationships, speak clearly, and 'leave our agenda at the door.' Dogs read your chemistry and body language better than we read them.

GENERALISATION & ASSOCIATION

If something happens, it will always happen in this order: where you are, how you are, where the dog is, and how the dog reacts. If I get a new cue for the dog, then it needs to be done in this manner, at this location, and at this time. For example, my dog does it perfectly at home. Learning is driven by cause and effect—training benefits from using incentives to achieve a desirable end. Your dog's constant response to your stimulus is referred to as obedience. A good training response is automatic in response to your stimulus. That element is to blame if anything enters my environment and causes me pain. I am safe since I am experiencing happy feelings. Dogs learn by association. I'll keep doing it as long as it keeps me safe and makes me happy. Everything is based on the connection between events and sensory inputs. (hand signals, body language, verbal)

THE PROBLEM - HOW DO GOOD DOGS BECOME REACTIVE

How did we create the problem

New experiences might be scary. Socialising reduces the number of new items encountered only if they are associated with pleasure. We let pups become excited and 'practise' being hyper. Seeing a puppy perform the zoomies, chase its tail, or chase a leaf/ball/frisbee is endearing. Arousal increases and triggers stack until something happens. It may appear minor, yet it transforms the arousal into fear/stress. "Think of arousal as a red cloud of energy that interferes with judgement and causes poor behaviour," says Trish King. Nobody educates the dog to make good choices. He makes poor judgments, which leads to DRAMA and 'attention.' WE KNOW THAT SOMETHING IS WRONG. We do not train our dogs to be more tolerant of frustration. We do not develop coping skills. We do not widen the scope of our expectations of the dog. We do not help the dog burn off cortisol. A lack of learned alternative behaviours leads to reactive, aggressive, obnoxious, and unpleasant behaviours.

WHERE DID I GO WRONG?

Alpha and Dominance – sorry, the old wolf pack theories have been disproved for about 15 years. Puppies run wild and do not train till six months, or we leave dogs outside for long periods to 'do what they want. Too many corrections – not enough reward, accidental leash corrections, interfering when dogs are getting to know each other and working it out, freaking out at our dog's behaviour when there is nothing to fear. You stopped doing things (play ball/tug/chase) that decreased your dog's stress removing their chance to learn coping skills. Not learning to listen to our dog when it tells us it has had enough—not building a relationship—not playing, engaging, and making our dog feel safe—forcing a dog to face too much, too soon—treating a dog like a child. Letting dogs rehearse unacceptable behaviours. Not enough mental or physical stimulation. We did not teach the dog impulse/prey control.

ANTHROPOMORPHISM & UNREALISTIC EXPECTATIONS

Our expectations, such as that dogs should be like children, may cause problems. We want the dog to "look after" us in the sense of providing for our needs. The dog can't fulfil our wants. When the dog is agitated, it stops responding. We place the dog under emotional stress, we put the dog through emotional hardship and the dog has no recourse. We assign dogs' reflective behaviour and destructive behaviour to moral and cognitive actions, and we convert the dog's behaviour into their human equivalents. A dog is considered to be "grinning" when it shows its teeth. We assign to dogs human characteristics like anger, revenge, and guilt. "He knew what he had done was wrong." We expect dogs to be good since we have cared for and rescued them. We expect them to appreciate it.

People often have misconceptions about aggression. We'd like to think they're doing their best to keep us safe.

LEASH REACTIVITY

The dog cannot run or escape on the lead and is unable to "create room". The leash prevents the dog from fighting; therefore, the only option is to try to scare off the approaching Target or Trigger. On lunging and barking, corrections are given to the dog frequently without explanation. The dog associates the reprimand with anything nearby or on its way. Corrections made inadvertently are the "Midnight Race" to frustration. More often, the owner becomes increasingly concerned with the behaviour when going out with the dog. When the dog senses this, he becomes concerned. Sometimes the owners are in a hurry and hurry out of the house after putting on the leash, but their dog is looking for a Target or Trigger. The dog is not happy. The dog is not at all soothed. Nothing is done to change the dog's emotional state.

DIAGNOSIS PROBLEMS

Pop Science strives to make things simpler. It causes others to label behaviour, and if you "say it loud enough" or "often enough," you are viewed as an expert without providing citations or references. Dog behaviour is influenced by training, human connection, socialisation, dog personalities, breeds, drive, sensitivity, and instinct. Our Anxiety and frustration impact the dog's behaviour. What one dog considers "threshold" behaviour is another dog's calming signals. A dog's reaction to a threat is unique to the dog. There are two types of reflexes: active and passive. Our emotional response to a particular situation can change the dog. We witness people with little pets cringing and picking up their dogs. The dog's level of fear/anxiety grows. The dog may have identified a solution if the owner merely let the dog 'deal' with the problem. We see when two dogs argue, then leave them alone for 5 minutes, and they'll be playing. We are working hard to put a stop to the behaviour. The problem is that we treat the symptom while ignoring the cause. We do not deal with teaching the dog new behaviours or how to cope with fear or stress. Our attempts may mask the behaviour.

We create conflict.

STIMULUS GENERALISATION

Using the classical conditioning, dogs may be taught to connect a neutral sound with a rewarding experience (food). - A friend visits the home. Your dog is excited to meet Friend when he hears the doorbell. Dog adores the sound of the doorbell as cortisol levels soar, which can be good or bad. The Little Albert experiment from 1913 illustrates how a dog learns to associate identical undesirable stimuli.

Sometimes if it gets out of hand, you chase the dog, shout, and push it into the crate. The dog is now afraid and alone. The next time the doorbell rings, horrible things are about to happen. The dog growls because he cannot escape a sound (he cannot pinpoint it). The stranger at the door leaves (postman). To correct the dog, you are not home. The dog has discovered that strangers are stopped by aggression. On a walk, your dog growls, and a stranger backs up (just 1 inch). They are growling means making room. It's good to growl.

TRIGGER STACKING – SELF-CONTROL DEPLETION

How does trigger stacking work?

Dogs under the threshold can make wise decisions. Dogs over the threshold will try to create room and space for themselves. If too much of it, it causes a "reflexive response," i.e. barking, lunging, growling and so on.

Good: Stress begins at 0. Dogs have a stress episode +2. Time allows the dog's cortisol level to drop to zero. The dog is ready for the subsequent encounter.

Bad: Stress starts at zero. The dog has stress event +2. Shortly after, the dog has another +2 occurrence. The current stress level is +4 and keeps adding on after that.

Cortisol's return to normal level may take 72 hours.

Imagine that stress is to a dog what a shock is to a human. We don't feel well. We are unable to think clearly. We don't feel at ease. Impulse control and self-restraint are learnt behaviours. They must be practised as if it were to become muscle memory to deal with trigger stacking.

Miller et al., also from 2010, connect decreased self-control with glucose depletion in the brain.

THERAPY TREATMENTS MANAGEMENT IMPROVING LIFE

HOW TO FIX THE PROBLEM

You can alter your dog's emotional response (Ian Dunbar). meet the dog's emotional needs.

Give your dog acceptable behaviour. Let them "make decisions" If a dog "shuts down" psychologically and waits for a correction, it cannot make wise decisions. Establish a cooperative connection with your dog so that it will turn to you for safety as a "response."

Burn the cortisol off. You have around 10 minutes to alter your dog's emotional reaction to the target or trigger following the "event". Develop self-control over your "reaction." It doesn't matter if you feel fear or not. It does not matter whether you are making an effort. It is all about what messages you send to the dog. Some other suggestions -

BAT (John Fisher – let the dog choose)
TACT (focus on me and ignore the trigger)
CAT (Let's work out bad feelings on a stuffed dog)
Reactive Rover Classes (let's do this together)
Operant/Classical Conditioning/Desensitising - Why it isn't standalone, because it needs to work together.
Push Therapy and Relationship Therapy
Abandonment Therapy – Using the dog's social needs to fix the problem.
Punishment/correction doesn't work because you are training into the void.

WHY/WHEN BEHAVIOUR MODIFICATION FAILS

Cognitive actions can only get one response at a time. We teach the dog an 'alternative' reaction to the event to modify his behaviour. We believe dogs should be able to perform two or three things at once, but they can't, so we compensate by dangling a reward over the dog's nose. WE DO NOT PRACTICE; without sufficient practice, we do not develop muscle memory. Dogs may react to our drama.

On the FLIP side, we can support our dogs in healing. Our emotions cloud the situation. We feel resentful, furious, fearful, and irritated, and we want the problem to end "NOW." This causes a chemical shift in us that the dog can detect. The dog may not respond intellectually to our emotional condition. It reacts to it. (Visceral response)

BEHAVIOUR MODIFICATION MISTAKES

BEFORE we do anything, we wait for the dog to engage in undesirable behaviour. The essential thing we can do is to prevent the behaviour from occurring. Toss the treat before the dog begins growling.

Don't teach the dog to deal with eye contacts, such as a staring contest, humans walking directly at the dog, or passing dogs. We teach obedience until the dog no longer irritates us. We do not raise the bar. We don't proof it. We never introduce new items into the dog's environment. We must teach redirection, recalls, and 'drop!' until they become reflexes (Imprinting) rather than cognitive processes. We need consistency. Obedience, play, and exercise must become a way of life. We micromanage everything. We yanked the dog away. We push the dog to act in a certain way. We don't leave it to the dog to "figure things out." We concentrate on ending the hostility while ignoring the dog's wants, emotions, and reflexes.

Emotions are the problem – Emotions are the solution

WHAT DOGS NEED

The importance of predictability and consistency cannot be overstated to feel secure being heard.

Dogs require 'space' to keep their emotions in check and To establish good associations

Positive Associations Lead to Positive Behaviour. Dogs require positive consequences for both their poor and good behaviour. They rely on us to inform them when they are doing the correct thing. Good socialisation entails forming good associations with as many people as possible so that the 'generalised stimulus' = is good for anything or anybody that is unusual. Do not train in a vacuum. Show the dog what the 'yes' is if you say no.

METHODS AND THERAPY

BAT - Behaviour Adjustment Therapy - Let dogs make their own choices
TACT – Touch Associated Clicker Training - Teaching the dog to learn how to remain calm or to calm itself. Teaching the dog coping skills
Click to Calm – Emma Parsons - Manage behaviour and Rehabilitation for reactive dogs
CAT - Constructional Aggression Treatment
Push or Tug Therapy – Teaching Dogs coping skills
Abandonment Therapy – Trish King uses social needs to teach dogs to stop aggressive behaviour
Reactive Rover – Association, Generalization, Desensitisation
Building Coping Skills (Susan Clothier)

HOW TO HELP

Take charge of training

You have around 10 minutes to adjust the dog's emotional response to the scary experience; therefore, you can employ any of the below.

Play
Treats
Fun
Affection
Assist your dog in burning off the cortisol—high-energy Run.

Dogs grow into, rather than out of, aggression. It will worsen if you do not actively work to solve the situation. There is no point where behaviour becomes stagnant, i.e. behaviour stagnation zone. It's either becoming better or worse.

Obedience is ineffective. Teaching another task/trick will not improve behaviours or reactions to an experience unless used as displacement behaviour with appropriate behaviour modification.

Keep things simple; Crate Train to avoid overstimulation; Try minimising the dog's self-gratification from bad behaviour and practising negative behaviours.

SOCIALISATION

Socialising does not entail subjecting your dog to scary situations. It is about instilling confidence, trust, courage, fearlessness, and mental fortitude in the dog. If it takes your dog a month to approach people, then so be it.

It is about developing positive emotional associations with people, dogs, and "scary things."

Do not subject the dog to constant stress without YOU taking control of the situation through training. Your dog is defenceless.

LOOK – LEAVE IT

You could say "look" and hold treats in front of the dog's face all day; it will not help if you don't develop a relationship with it. Offering a nice reward as a lure will not work unless there is a good relationship. A protocol must be in place and adhered to until it is perfect. Focus initially on developing relationships, and then the subsequent behaviour has to be reinforced until it becomes reflexive.

The dog needs to have trust in you. Always remain composed.

RELATIONSHIPS

So, develop a bond and communication with your dog. Work together to make your dog feel safe and secure and meet its emotional needs. Teach your dog to be calm.

Moreover, control your anxiousness by learning to relax and stop yanking on the leash. Develop coping mechanisms and create positive associations.

TEACH DOG TO BE CALM

Tellington Touch TT
Canine Massage
Calming protocols
Impulse control
Classical and Operant Conditioning
Teach an alternative behaviour
Play and Treat
Clicker training
Don't let dogs play rough, bite, etc. If they can do it to you, then other dogs can do it to them.

STAY SAFE

Make space for the dog. Walk slowly and look for a visual barrier. Try tossing goodies in the air if the dog is nearby. Only three out of four times in tests did this work for me.

Slowly count back while you breathe. Be composed. Try to remain still, don't move, and stop all motions for both of you if the dog doesn't respond. Keep your dog's attention off the other dog. Keep them away from "lock and load" stare-offs.

Try to ignore the other dog and maintain composure in your voice.

IT'S YOUR DOG'S CHOICE. YOU CAN'T MAKE IT HAPPEN.

Force-free trainers v Balanced dog trainers

Sat, 10 Sep 2022 10:30:16 GMT

Are you a force-free trainer or balanced trainer? The very question epitomises the sorry state of the dog training industry.

Why are dog trainers only confined to two types – Force-free trainers v Balanced dog trainers?

There are two different styles of learning: active and passive. Therefore, force-free or balanced is only relevant to active learning. In most circumstances, it only accounts for around 25% of learning. 75%, or 3/4, of dog training is comprised of passive learning, hence it is mostly irrelevant.

Let's debate these terms and their definitions if they have a standard one.

As seen in the images, the loose definition of a balanced or force-free dog trainer is based on the skinner's operant conditioning quadrants. You are force-free if you operate in quadrants 1 and 4; you are a balanced trainer if you employ all four quadrants selectively.

Now, merely placing stuff in each quadrant is not enough. Taking a dog into a body of water can be a punishment if the dog is afraid, or a pleasure if the dog enjoys it. The same is true with squirting guns; some dogs enjoy playing with them, therefore it becomes a punishment for others who dislike it.

These criteria (force-free and balanced) narrow the scope of dog training and exclude principles from other areas of learning and development. It disregards areas such as observation conditioning , associative learning , latent inhibition , behaviour management and the extensive implications of neurochemistry , neurology , endocrinology , pharmacology , evolutionary science, cultural impact , legal obligations , systematic desensitisation , environmental impact , bonding (human to human; dog to dog), and food enrichment, among others.

There is a great deal more to dog training than the futile debates and libellous comments we generally see.

It's because we employ terminology with extremely vague definitions, such as balanced trainer and force-free trainer, to sell social media likes for some businesses (Facebook Algorithms). The industry insiders prevent any substantially suggested legislation or implementation of rules (a post for another day).

Let us call it what it is - dog abuse (inflicting pain by chokers, prongs, electrocuting, beating or so on) and dog training for training the dog with compassion. Let's not get lost in unscientific terms narrowing the scope of dog training. Otherwise, balanced only lead to a conclusion that the trainer is allowed to abuse the dog - off course it is not the case for most dog professionals.

There is a reason why no dog trainer course offered in the United Kingdom (with the exception of university programmes) is OFQUAL-accredited or approved for public funding. The inference speaks volumes about the profession, and in contrast to dog grooming, young people cannot get public funding to obtain an Ofqual certificate, such as dog groomers, plumbers, electricians, or any other NVQ, to begin their careers as dog trainers.

OFQUAL will not accredit any dog trainer course provider's training credentials. Therefore, like anyone can be a dog trainer, anybody can start a shop with a charter on the website and an online course considerably below Ofqual's criteria to provide a level 3/4/5 and a database of registered trainers that appears to provide legitimacy. Ofqual has no say in it. All of these signs and emblems reflects self-regulation in effect.

We never hear these terms in the teaching profession - force-free teacher or a balanced teacher for our kids. It is because teachers have QTS standards through Ofqual regulated qualifications.

We do not imply that dog training colleges are redundant but the opposite that they are very important to ignore; we would like to see the training colleges go one step further and become approved by Ofqual. Therefore; providing a proper career path for the younger generation, a standardised acceptable level of teaching and education, rigorous checks and balances on the teaching quality, an approved curriculum, and the list goes on.

All members of my staff are force-free, but I do not identify with either category, as both are fallacious.

If the law requires me to muzzle a dog in public against its will, you may consider me a balanced trainer. (quadrant 3/4)

If the law requires me to keep a dog on a leash in public against the dog's will, you can consider me a balanced trainer. (quadrant 3/4)

If animal welfare standards require that I cut a dog's nails against its will, you may consider me a balanced trainer. (quadrant 3/4)

If the law requires me to drive dogs in a confined space or on a tether against their will, you may consider me a balanced trainer. (quadrant 3/4)

If I think it is important that the puppy is crate trained, you may consider me a balanced trainer. (quadrant 3/4)

It is how you view the use of quadrant in a given set of circumstances rather than generalising them for beating the dog up, electrocuting the dog, choking the dog, wrestling with the dog (it is simply described as abuse). It is a subtle difference which comes with experience and research and makes a difference in a complex case.

No trainer is strictly force-free unless they are dealing with a dog with no restrictions, and the only way to control the dog is by using positive reinforcement - toys, treats or, primary reinforcers and secondary reinforcers. Imagine going on a walk with no lead but only treats in your hand so no force is transferred via leash to the dog during the walk.

Sometimes force-free trainers also use positive punishment, i.e. taking away something the dog enjoys – taking a toy/chew away to get the behaviour and giving it back to reinforce it. This approach, in some cases, can lead to resource guarding or may not be used with dogs suffering from resource guarding. Therefore, confining force-free to one quadrant only – positive reinforcement. It comes back to the same argument again – can you confine your approach to positive only – what about a dog wanting to run in a café; bus journey; pub; or town centre walking; you have to put the dog on a lead to comply with the law (to add restriction and decrease the freedom to run around).

Putting a dog or a puppy on a leash can be considered a balanced trainer approach as you are taking away the dog/puppy's freedom (which he dearly enjoys) or adding a restriction he doesn't like. Taking away the dog's freedom he enjoys by putting a lead on will be considered a positive punishment per skinners quadrants. Adding something which a dog doesn't love decreases a behaviour. Unless the dog loves and enjoys being on the leash (unlikely considering evolutionary science).

Very few dogs enjoy nail clipping and are trained from a very young age. Still, one wrong move with a nail clipper, which touches a quick (blood capillary in nails) or slashes it, will undo positive reinforcement and make the nail clipping negative punishment—adding something the dog doesn't enjoy to reduce the behaviour (nail clipping nicking quick but done after that; to get compliance for nail clipping).

Any dog trainer advertising to be force-free is either putting ideology above children's safety by refusing to put a muzzle on a bite risk dog in a family with kids, or they are false advertising because putting a muzzle on is anything but force-free from a dogs point of view. They may have buried their heads in sand as they mostly train puppies and preach ideology. Alternatively, they use this as marketing tactics to lure the clients in. In clinical terms, putting a dog on the lead is a use of force to restrain the dog's movement - hence, no training is force free!

Another important question arises; How would a force-free trainer train a dog under the magistrate's CDO - contingent destruction order? CDO is usually imposed on those dogs who have previously bitten humans. Either they seek to break the law by training without a muzzle to stick to their ideology, or they are not force-free. It is just a marketing front. Alternatively, they are not experienced enough to touch those cases and give you a classic answer - seek help from a veterinary behaviourist. You will be lucky if you can find a vet nowadays let alone a vet dog trainer. Talentless people holding back the development of the profession as they seek to peddle social media likes on a one size fit dog training - force-free (without understanding the terms force-free).

I never suggest inflicting pain, exceeding the dog's threshold for coping or placing puppies in an environment where they learn to be reactive. We teach the dog using research and scientific methodology. Through science direct, we pay substantial fees to access the veterinary behaviour journal and behaviour science publications.

There is the same old approach in the industry - hiding dog abuse under the terms such as balanced training and keep peddling social media likes with force-free posts.

If you are a true champion of dog welfare – you can take tangible actions such as putting a written complaint to the council for licensed premises. We are the only dog trainers in the area who have any kind of independent oversight through council licensing for our business – doggy day school.

You can even go further for improving dog welfare as a community champion by writing to your MP, form lobby groups, form advocacy groups, form community support for free access to dog training, encourage young people to enter the profession, engage in intellectual debates by highlighting the latest research. Engaging in the social media circus, keep hiding abuse with words such as balanced trainer and others keep peddling force-free advice to gain social media for their business interest.

We should inform and educate, but also more importantly, we must push for a dog trainers' training provider to get OFQUAL approved.

The above blog is the personal opinion of Kam.

How to crate train your dog

Mon, 11 Apr 2022 11:48:15 GMT

Crate training your dog may take some time and effort but can be useful in various situations. If you have a new dog or puppy, you can use the crate to limit his access to the house until he learns all the house rules – like what he can and can’t chew on and where he can and can’t eliminate.

A crate is also a safe way of transporting your dog in the car, as well as a way of taking him places where he may not be welcome to run freely. If you properly train your dog to use the crate, he’ll think of it as his safe place and will be happy to spend time there when needed.

Selecting a crate

Crates will be plastic (often called flight kennels or Vari-Kennels) or collapsible, metal pens. They come in different sizes and can be purchased at most pet supply stores. Your dog’s crate should be just large enough for him to stand up and turn around.

The crate training process

Crate training can take days or weeks, depending on your dog’s age, temperament and past experiences. It’s important to keep two things in mind while crate training. The crate should always be associated with something pleasant, and training should take place in a series of small steps – don’t go too fast.

Step 1: Introducing your dog to the crate

Put the crate in an area of your house where the family spends much time, such as the family room. Put a soft blanket or towel in the crate. Bring your dog over to the crate and talk to him in a happy tone of voice. Ensure the crate door is securely fastened open, so it won’t hit your dog and frighten him.

To encourage your dog to enter the crate, drop some small food treats near it, then just inside the door, and finally, all the way inside the crate. If he refuses to go all the way in at first, that’s okay – don’t force him to enter. Continue tossing treats into the crate until your dog will walk all the way calmly into the crate to get the food. If he isn’t interested in treats, try tossing a favourite toy or different high value meaty food in the crate. This step may take a few minutes or as long as few days.

Start leaving the treats inside the crate without telling the dog so when you are not looking the dog accidentally discover the good stuff in crate. If you notice treats have gone missing, just keep replacing them without telling the dog for next few days to create an associative learning.

Step 2: Feeding your dog his meals in the crate

After introducing your dog to the crate, begin feeding him his regular meals in the crate. This will create a pleasant association with the crate. If your dog is readily entering the crate when you begin Step 2, put the food dish at the back of the crate. If your dog is still reluctant to enter the crate, put the dish only as far inside as he will readily go without becoming fearful or anxious. Each time you feed him, place the dish a little further back in the crate.

Once your dog is standing comfortably in the crate to eat his meal, you can close the door while he’s eating. At first, open the door as soon as he finishes his meal. With each successive feeding, leave the door closed a few minutes longer until he’s staying in the crate for 10 minutes or so after eating. If he begins to whine to be let out, you may have increased the length of time too quickly. Next time, try leaving him in the crate for a shorter time period. If he does whine or cry in the crate, it’s imperative that you not let him out until he stops. Otherwise, he’ll learn that the way to get out of the crate is to whine, so he’ll keep doing it.

Do not leave the puppy alone in the crate while he is feeding. Sit next to the crate without interfering with the food or eating as you do not want to create the feeling of losing mummy & daddy as soon as crate is shut thus reluctance to eat inside the crate. Sit next to crate as long as dog is ok to stay in it or around it.

Step 3: Conditioning your dog to the crate for longer time periods

After your dog is eating his regular meals in the crate with no sign of fear or anxiety, you can confine him there for short time periods while you’re home. Call him over to the crate and give him a treat. Give him a command/cue to enter, such as, “go in.” Encourage him by pointing to the inside of the crate with a treat in your hand. After your dog enters the crate, praise him, give him the treat and close the door.

Sit quietly near the crate for five to 10 minutes and then go into another room for a few minutes. Return, sit quietly again for a short time, then let him out of the crate. Repeat this process several times a day. With each repetition, gradually increase the length of time you leave him in the crate and the length of time you’re out of his sight. Once your dog will stay quietly in the crate for about 30 minutes with you out of sight the majority of the time, you can begin leaving him crated when you’re gone for short time periods and/or letting him sleep there at night. This may take several days or several weeks.

Step 4: Crating your dog

Part A: Crating your dog when left alone

After your dog is spending about 30 minutes in the crate without becoming anxious or afraid, you can begin leaving him crated for short periods when you leave the house. Put him in the crate using your regular command and a treat. You might also want to leave him with a few safe toys in the crate. You’ll want to vary at what point in your “getting ready to leave” routine you put your dog in the crate. Although he shouldn’t be crated for a long time before you leave, you can crate him anywhere from five to 20 minutes before leaving. Don’t make your departures emotional and prolonged, but matter-of-fact. Praise your dog briefly, give him a treat for entering the crate and then leave quietly. When you return home, don’t reward your dog for excited behaviour by responding to him in an excited, enthusiastic way. Keep arrivals low key. Continue to crate your dog for short periods from time to time when you’re home so he doesn’t associate crating with being left alone. Your dog should not be left alone in the crate for more than four to five hours at a time during the day.

Part B: Crating your dog at night

Put your dog in the crate using your regular command and a treat. Initially, it may be a good idea to put the crate in your bedroom, next to your bed or nearby in a hallway, especially if you have a puppy. Puppies often need to go outside to eliminate during the night, and you’ll want to be able to hear your puppy when he whines to be let outside. Older dogs, too, should initially be kept nearby so that crating doesn’t become associated with social isolation. Once your dog is sleeping comfortably through the night with his crate near you, you can begin to gradually move it to the location you prefer.

Potential problems

Too much time in the crate

A crate isn’t a magical solution. If not used correctly, a dog can feel trapped and frustrated. For example, if your dog is crated all day while you’re at work and then crated all night again, he’s spending too much time in too small a space. Other arrangements should be made to accommodate his physical and emotional needs. Also, remember that puppies under six months of age shouldn’t stay in a crate for more than three or four hours at a time unless night time sleeping. They can’t control their bladders and bowels for longer periods.

Whining

If your dog whines or cries while in the crate at night, it may be difficult to decide whether he’s whining to be let out of the crate, or whether he needs to be let outside to eliminate. If you followed the training procedures outlined above, your dog hasn’t been rewarded for whining in the past by being released from his crate. Try to ignore the whining (as long as it is not inducing stress). If your dog is just testing you, he’ll probably stop whining soon. Yelling at him or pounding on the crate will only make things worse.

If the whining continues after you’ve ignored him for several minutes, use the phrase he associates with going outside to eliminate. If he responds and becomes excited, take him outside. This should be a trip with a purpose, not playtime. If you’re convinced that your dog doesn’t need to eliminate, the best response is to ignore him until he stops whining (given he is not stressing himself out). If you’ve progressed gradually through the training steps and haven’t done too much too fast, you’ll be less likely to encounter this problem. If the problem becomes unmanageable, you may need to start the crate training process over again.

Separation anxiety

Attempting to use the crate to remedy separation anxiety won’t solve the problem. A crate may prevent your dog from being destructive, but he may injure himself in an attempt to escape from the crate. Separation anxiety problems can only be resolved with counter-conditioning and desensitisation procedures. You may want to consult a professional dog trainer for help.

Fear anxiety - humans and dogs with CER

Sun, 03 Apr 2022 14:49:42 GMT

Conditioned Emotional Response (CER) - understanding your dog

In this blog, we will be dipping in and out of the human and dog worlds at the same time since they are intricately intertwined in terms of applied behaviour science on a conceptual level.

Additionally, this blog does not consider the effect of poor socialisation at early stages of development, breed traits, chronic stress, history of training, diet, and other such issues. It will be dealt with in separate blogs.

Conditioned emotional response is also known as learnt emotional response or reaction to conditioned stimuli. American psychologists popularised the phrase "Condition-ed," which makes more sense when defining the term CER. The word CER is defined as Conditional Emotional Response in the precise translation of Pavlov's phrases from Russian to English.

What is the mechanism of Conditioned Emotional Response?

The acquisition of a Conditioned Emotional Response follows the same premise as classical conditioning. When an organism is exposed to a certain stimulus, a physiologically meaningful event occurs, resulting in the link. Anxiety, happiness, sorrow, pain, and other emotions that an organism experiences are examples of emotional reactions. Conditioned emotional response is also known as learnt emotional reaction or response to conditioned stimuli.

All emotional reactions are regulated by the autonomic nerve system. The sympathetic nervous system, one of the two subgroups of the system (parasympathetic and sympathetic nervous systems), is responsible for the varied emotional reactions displayed by the ordinary human.

Animals, like humans, are born with a biological system that allows them to experience pleasure and pain, eliciting emotional reactions. These emotional reactions occur swiftly and automatically, with no rational thought involved.

Therefore, a CER is a learnt automatic reaction to a stimuli based on previous exposures and experiences. It is not a choice or a conscious decision; it is an emotional and instinctual reaction. This is comparable to what occurs to troops suffering from PTSD. They frequently exhibit CERs to noises that resemble explosions or shooting. If they hear fireworks, even if they are not in the setting of battle, they may experience flashbacks that induce them to react violently to the sounds. Similarly, It can also be seen in youngsters who are under exam stress.

Panic attacks, test anxiety, stage fright, and other comparable feelings exhibited when disturbed or uncomfortable are examples of the variety of emotions under CER. In "fight or flight" circumstances, the system is immediately triggered, resulting in symptoms such as elevated heart rate, perspiration, feeling weak in the knees, and other symptoms.

These emotions/reactions are acquired unintentionally or unknowingly, and they tend to linger with a person for a long time. In contrast to muscular responses, which may be noticed as early as half a second, these conditioned responses might take up to 2-10 seconds.

"All neurosis are fundamentally conditioned emotional responses," writes British psychologist Hans Eysenck (Cunningham, 1984).

CER relies heavily on neurochemistry

Several electrical and chemical communications take place in the brain via neurons. These transmissions have an impact on how dogs and other animals, including humans, learn, memorise, feel emotions, and behave. Animals can recall past experiences and respond (without cognitive involvement) in a reflex-like manner that has proven beneficial in the past because neurons form such connections. The amygdala is involved in the processing of memory and emotional reactions. It is also known as the "brain's smoke detector." The amygdala is in charge of signalling the adrenal cortex to produce chemicals (cortisol, adrenaline) that prepare the body for fight or flight. — that bodily response – a vital component of survival – a component of self-defense – an inner desire to protect – Whatever you want to name it.

The Classic Case

Experiment of Little Albert -

I n 1920, John B. Watson and Rosaile Rayner performed the Little Albert Experiment. The experiment featured a 9-month-old infant, and the entire objective of the experiment was to make tiny Albert fearful.

The infant was shown a rat, to which he responded neutrally and without terror. After a while, every time the infant interacted with the rat, a loud sound was made behind his back by striking a steel bar with a hammer.

Little Albert felt frightened only by staring at the rat after repeated pairings of the rat with the sound, even when no sound was made. As a result, he developed a conditioned emotional reaction of crying at the sight of the rat.

The experiment is a typical example of CER, Conditioned Emotional Response, in which Little Albert was exposed to a specific stimuli in order to elicit a fear response. Watson, and Rayner, who were ignorant of the phrase CER at the time, assumed they were applying general conditioning principles to human behaviour in the famous experiment.

The term "CER, Conditioned Emotional Response" was coined by B.F. Skinner and William Kaye Estes. The experiment is synonymous to dogs, especially if they have anxiety or fear-based behaviour issues. It is possible that dogs might get anxious by the mere sight of the trigger, resulting in stress-induced reactivity.

It is critical to remember that CER can be positive or negative, hence +CER or -CER. Conditioning emotional responses are based on associative learning (classical conditioning). In the instance of Pavlov's dogs a bell signifies food through connections or a dog learns that a leash indicates a walk and a clicker means a treat.

Conditioned Emotional Response Examples

CER is more frequent than most people realise. Emotional reactions developed as a result of conditioning may be found in everyday life.

Example 1 +CER

The scent of gasoline attracts a lot of people. In order to fully realise this, it is possible that they related it with enjoyable car journeys they took as children or motorbike rides they took as adults. As a result of this unconscious pairing, individual may develop a preference for the odour of gasoline.

Likewise -

Some dogs enjoy the sight of their leash; perhaps they relate it with their upbringing memories of nice and cheerful runs around the park or on the beach. Some dogs can't stop going after a tennis ball because they identify it with the adrenaline-fuelled chase that releases endorphins in the system.

Example 2: -CER

Consider a person who has been bitten by a dog few times. He may recall the agony of the bite whenever he encounters a dog (extreme condition). Even if the dog is only attempting to lick the human, he may feel intimidated. In countries where youngsters are more likely to be exposed to stray dogs may have a common fear of dogs.

Likewise -

A dog who was mistreated by people as a puppy may recall the agony of each human encounter (extreme conditioning). Even if people try to snuggle or show love and affection to the dog, he may feel threatened and snap at his handler. It may be widespread in areas where dogs are more likely to be stray.

There are several such cases in which Conditioned Emotional Response might be used to explain. A class is usually tense when a surprise exam is announced. Furthermore, a stimulus such as the fragrance of perfume may remind you of someone in your life, causing regret, laughter, or other comparable feelings.

Likewise –

A dog is usually nervous when a stranger pays him a visit. And, stimuli such as scents at the veterinary clinic may remind the dog of the person who stabbed (vaccinated) him, causing dread, anxiety, or similar other feelings, and the link is established.

The brain, neurological system, and endocrine system are all involved when a conditioned emotional reaction occurs.

The dog's brain is thought to operate in a "hardwired" reflex-like manner in reaction to each individual event based on earlier learning via association. This explains why standard training approaches aren't very effective in changing behaviour. We are functioning on an emotional rather than a cognitive level.

Instead, behaviour modification works because we are modifying dog’s emotions through counterconditioning. As a result, one conditioned response (fear) to the same conditioned stimuli is substituted by another (Corey, 1971, p.127). The good emotional response eventually replaces the fear.

During counterconditioning, neurons are re-joined on a neuronal level, with the goal of improving the nervous system's plasticity. When we have a conditioned emotional reaction, we try to change past neural connections and transform a frightened response into a positive, pleasure one.

Dog trainers frequently build their dog training approaches on the principles of CER.

Although it is easier said than done, the goal of counter conditioning (dog to dog reactivity) with a nervous dog should be –

FROM — Strange Dog = Potential Threat —- TO— Strange Dog = Delicious Food!

That's where dog trainers come in, since they have a variety of tools in their toolbox to help make this happen.

Dog Barking

Sun, 20 Mar 2022 10:31:14 GMT

Dog barking - what can I do ?

Disclaimer - This blog is intended for information purposes only. If in doubt always seek help from a dog trainer.

Barking

Barking is one of various techniques of vocal communication used by dogs. Others are typically pleased when their dog barks since it alerts them to the presence of people within their home or shows that the dog desires or requires something. A dog's barking, on the other hand, might be excessive at times. Because barking serves several functions, you must first determine the reason for the barking and your dog's motivation for barking before you can address a barking problem.

For a dog, each type of barking has a distinct function, and if he is repeatedly rewarded for it—that is, if it gets him what he wants—he may learn to use barking to his advantage. Dogs that efficiently bark for attention, for example, regularly bark for food, play, and walks. As a result, it's vital to train your dog to remain silent on command so that you may stop his attention-related barking and teach him to do something else, like sit or down, to get what he wants.

Many dog owners can identify why their dog is barking just by hearing it. A dog's bark, for example, differs depending on whether he wants to play or come in from the yard. If you want to reduce your dog's barking, you must first determine why he is barking. Training your dog to quit barking can take some time. Unfortunately, expecting a quick fix or your dog to cease barking completely is impractical. (Would you anticipate someone abruptly ceasing to speak?) Your goal should be to lessen, not eliminate, the amount of barking. Keep in mind that certain dogs are more inclined to bark than others. Furthermore, some breeds are known as "barkers," and it may be more difficult to eliminate barking in these individuals.

What causes dogs to bark?

Territorially barking

When people, other dogs, or other animals enter or approach their area, dogs may bark excessively. Your dog's territory includes the area surrounding his house and, eventually, whatever he has investigated or firmly associated with you: your car, the route you go on walks, and other places he spends a lot of time.

The alarm is sounding

Your dog is most likely alarm barking if he barks at every noise and sight, regardless of context. Alarm barking dogs have more rigid body language than welcoming barking dogs, and they typically spring or leap forward an inch or two with each bark. Alarm barking varies from territorial barking in that a dog can alarm bark at any time and in any area, rather than just while guarding recognised sites such as your home, yard, or car.

Trying to get your attention

Some dogs bark at humans or other animals in order to get their attention or to gain rewards such as food, toys, or play.

Greetings from barking

If your dog barks when he meets humans or other dogs and his body is relaxed and enthusiastic, with his tail wagging, he might be welcoming. Dogs who bark to greet people or other animals may whimper as well.

Barking compulsively

Some dogs bark endlessly, almost monotonously. These canines move in a repetitive fashion as well. A dog who is incessantly barking, for example, may walk around his home or move back and forth along the fence in his yard.

Barking that is socially encouraged

Some dogs howl excessively only when they hear other dogs barking. This form of barking occurs in the social context of hearing other dogs, even if they are a long distance away—for example, dogs in the neighbourhood.

Dissatisfaction causes barking

Some dogs scream excessively only when they are placed in an inconvenient situation, such as being unable to access playmates or being confined or tied up, limiting their movement.

Other factors contributing to barking

Illnesses or Injuries

Dogs will occasionally bark in reaction to pain or discomfort. Before attempting to solve your dog's barking problem, please get your dog examined by a veterinarian.

Anxiety-induced barking

Excessive barking due to separation anxiety occurs only when the dog's caretaker is not there or when the dog is left alone. Pacing, destruction, elimination, despair, or other signs of pain are frequent symptoms of separation anxiety. Seek help from professionals when dealing with anxiety induced barking.

What Should You Do If Your Dog Never Stops Barking?

The first step in reducing your dog's barking is to identify the type of bark your dog is making. The questions below can help you establish which type of barking your dog is doing so that you can treat your dog's problem more effectively.

Consider your answers to these questions as you go through the information on the various types of barking and their treatments below.

When and where does the barking occur?

What or who is the intended target of the barking?

What is the source of the barking (things, sounds, animals, or humans)?

What's the story behind your dog's barking?

If the barking is territorial or alarm barking

Territorial behaviour is typically motivated by a mix of anxiety and anticipatory fear of a looming danger. Because protecting territory is such a high priority for dogs, they are greatly motivated to bark when they detect the approach of unknown persons or animals in familiar settings, such as their homes and yards.

Because of this strong desire, your dog may ignore unpleasant or punishing responses from you, such as scolding or yelling, while barking territorially. Even if the barking stops, your dog's need to protect his territory will remain strong, and he may attempt to control his territory in other ways, such as by biting without warning.

Dogs utilise territorial barking to alert others to the presence of guests, to frighten off intruders, or to do both. A dog may bark when he sees or hears visitors approaching the door, the postal man carrying the mail, or the maintenance person reading the gas metre. He may also react to people and animals going by your home or apartment. When some dogs are in the car and see humans or other dogs pass by, they become tremendously upset. Based on his body position and demeanour, you should be able to discern if your dog is barking to say "Welcome, come on in!" or "Hey, you'd best hit the road!" "You are not invited to my home!"

Use the welcome barking therapy recommended in this article if you have a dog in the first category (below).

If you have a dog that isn't friendly to humans, you'll have a greater chance of success if you limit your dog's ability to see or hear passers-by and encourage him to associate the presence of strangers with pleasant things like food and attention. Reduce your dog's incentive as well as his opportunity to guard his territory to treat territorial barking. You can block your dog's ability to see humans and animals in order to regulate his behaviour. Removable plastic film or spray-on glass coatings can help to limit your dog's visibility of areas he watches and guards from within your home. Encircle any outside areas that your dog has access to with secure, opaque fencing. Refrain from allowing your dog to greet guests at the front door, front yard gate, or property border. Instead, instruct him to move to a separate location, such as a cage or a mat, and remain silent or wait until he is silent and until he is appropriately invited to meet.

Alarm barking, like territorial barking, is produced by both sights and sounds. Alarm barking dogs, on the other hand, may do so in reaction to things that worry or distress them when they are outside of their regular zone.

A dog, for example, would generally only bark territorially when he sees others coming when he is in his own house, yard, or car. A dog who barks to notify outsiders may also bark when he sees or hears strangers approaching in other locations. Although territorial barking and alarm barking are separate issues, the suggestions below apply to both.

Training "quiet" manners

If your dog continues to alarm bark or bark territorially despite your efforts to keep him away from sights and noises that might provoke him to bark, consider the following techniques:

When someone comes to the door or passes by your property, teach your dog that he is permitted to bark until you say "Quiet."
Allow three to four barks from your dog.
Next you say "Silence".
Avoid yelling. It can be counterintuitive. Simply state the demand clearly and gently.
Then return to your dog, softly seal his snout with your palm, and say "Quiet." Don’t forget to be gentle as you are holding dog’s muzzle!
Release your dog’s muzzle, step away, and call him away from the door or window. Then ask your dog to sit and give him a treat.
If he stays by you and keeps calm for a few minutes, continue to give him regular rewards until whatever sparked his barking is gone.
If your dog resumes barking right away, repeat the sequence above. Do the same outside if he barks at passersby when he’s in the yard.

If you prefer not to hold your dog’s muzzle or if doing so seems to scare your dog or make him struggle, you can try a different method. When your dog barks, approach him, calmly say “Quiet or shhhh,” and then prompt his silence by feeding him a steady stream of tiny, pea-sized treats, such as chicken, hot dogs or bits of cheese. After enough repetitions of this sequence, over several days or more of training, your dog will begin to understand what “Quiet” means. You’ll know that he’s catching on if he consistently stops barking as soon as he hears you say “Quiet.” At this point, you can gradually extend the time between the cue, “Quiet,” and your dog’s reward. For example, say “Quiet,” wait 2 seconds, and then feed your dog several small treats in a row. Over many repetitions, gradually increase the time from 2 seconds to 5, then 10, then 20, and so on.

If the “Quiet” procedure is ineffective after 10 to 20 attempts, then allow your dog to bark 3 to 4 times, calmly say “Quiet,” and then immediately make a some other noise by shaking a set of keys, dog’s harness or lead as if you are taking him for a walk – anything distracting. If your dog is effectively distracted by the sound, he’ll stop barking. The instant he does, call him away from the door or window, ask him to sit, and give him a treat. If he stays beside you and remains quiet, continue to give him frequent treats for the next few minutes until whatever triggered his barking is gone. If he resumes barking right away, repeat the sequence. If this procedure doesn’t work after 10 to 20 attempts, please seek Professional Help.

If your dog barks at people or other dogs during walks, distract him with special treats, like chicken, cheese or hot dogs, before he begins to bark. (Soft, very tasty treats work best.) The key to success is that treats must be given before the dog start barking rather than after. Show your dog the treats by holding them in front of his nose, and encourage him to nibble at them while he’s walking past a person or dog who would normally cause him to bark. Some dogs do best if you ask them to sit as people or dogs pass. Other dogs prefer to keep moving. Make sure you praise and reward your dog with treats anytime he chooses not to bark.

It may help to have your dog wear a head halter, muzzle, figure of 8 around the body, at times when he’s likely to bark (for example, on specific places during the walk). A halter or muzzle can have a distracting or calming effect and make your dog less likely to bark. Make sure you reward him for not barking. (Important note: For safety reasons, only let your dog wear the halter or muzzles for very short bursts no longer than a few minutes.)

If your dog most often barks territorially in your yard, keep him in the house during the day and supervise him when he’s in the yard so that he can’t just bark his head off when no one’s around. This type of unsupervised barking head off behaviour will likely result in an entrenched barking behaviour. If he’s sometimes able to engage in excessive alarm barking (when you’re not around, for example), that behaviour will get stronger and harder to reduce. Especially seen in left alone roaming free dogs.

If your dog most often barks territorially in your car, teach him to ride in a crate while in the car. Riding in a crate will restrict your dog’s view and reduce his motivation to bark.

“Go to Your Spot” Training

It also helps to teach your dog a specific set of behaviours to do when people come into your home so that he has fewer opportunities to alarm bark. Plus, when your dog performs his new behaviours and receives rewards, he’ll learn that people coming into his and your space is a good thing.

Steps

Before you can teach your dog to go to a certain location and stay there when a door opens, you must first teach him to sit or lie down and then to stay. After your dog has mastered these tasks, you can go on to
Determine a location in your house where you want your dog to go when visitors arrive. Choose a location that is at least eight feet distant from the front entrance yet still visible. It may be a space at the top of a flight of stairs, inside an adjacent room's doorway, your dog's crate, or a rug in the far corner of an entryway or foyer. Put a matt down in that place
Say "Go to Matt," then show your dog a treat and throw it on the spot where you want your dog to go. This procedure should be repeated 10 to 20 times. By the tenth time, try pretending to throw the reward so that your dog starts moving toward the location on his own. Throw the reward to him as soon as he's standing on his place or mat. When your dog understands, you may stop making the fake tossing motion with your arm and just tell him, "Go to your position." Then wait for him to do so before rewarding him.
When your dog is consistently going to his location, change where you are when you send him there. Experiment with asking him to go to his position from various angles and distances. Say "Go to your location" when you're standing a few feet to the left of it, for example. After a few repetitions, take a few feet to the right of the location and say, "Go to your spot," from there. Then proceed to another region of the room, then another, and so on. Eventually, practise standing at the front entrance and commanding your dog to go to his position, just like you would when guests come.
When your dog has mastered getting to his area, begin asking him to sit or down when he arrives. Say "Yes!" and praise your dog with a yummy treat as soon as his rear end hits the floor on the spot. Then respond, "OK," and let him to go away. Each training session, repeat these steps at least ten times.
Now include staying into your workout. Place yourself near to your dog's favourite area. Ask him to sit or lie down, then say "Stay" for one second. Then tell him "Yes!" or "Good!" and give him a reward. After you've given your dog the treat, say "Okay" to release him from the stay and encourage him to move. This sequence should be repeated at least ten times every training session. Gradually increase from one second to several seconds, but vary the period so that the exercise is simple sometimes (a shorter stay) and difficult other times (a longer stay). If your dog gets up before you say "Okay," say "Uh-uh!" or "Oops!" and promptly instruct him to sit or lie down again on his position. Then, the next few times, make the exercise a bit simpler by asking your dog to keep the stay for a shorter period of time. Avoid pushing your dog too quickly or trying him to see how long he can stay before getting up. This is a recipe for disaster for your dog. You want him to succeed at least eight out of ten times in a row.
You can start going toward the door when your dog can consistently stay on his position for at least 30 seconds with you standing in front of him. Say "Go to your spot," lead your dog to his location, ask him to sit or lie down, and then ask him to remain. Simply divert your head away from your dog at first. Then turn around and offer him a reward before releasing him from his confinement. Increase the difficulty after a few repetitions. Ask your dog to stay once he has sat or laid down on his position, and then take one step toward the door. Return promptly, give your dog a reward, and then use your release word or phrase to let him out of the stay. Increase the number of steps you take away from your dog and toward the door gradually. You'll eventually be able to walk all the way to the door and back as your dog sits or lies down on his place. (Don't forget to continue paying him for sticking around!) If your dog rises up or leaves his location before you let him out of the stay, exclaim "Oops!" as soon as he does. Then advise him to sit or lie down on his spot again and to stay. Wait a few seconds before releasing him. You may have advanced too quickly. Make the activity a bit simpler the next time so your dog can succeed. Request that he stay for a shorter length of time and refrain from moving as far away from him. When he is effective at an easier level, you may progressively increase the difficulty of the activity. Never put an end to your dog's stay from afar. Instead, always go back to him, say "Yes," give him a reward, and then say "Okay" to let him go.
You can begin to add distractions when your dog can regularly stay in a sit or a down on his spot for 30 seconds while you turn away and walk to the front door. Tell your dog to stay, then do something distracting to keep him busy. At start, keep your distractions to a minimum. Begin by bending down or performing a single jumping jack or anything silly, for example. Over the course of many training sessions, progressively increase the intensity of your diversions to things like taking a few steps or tossing a reward on the floor. Reward your dog immediately after each distraction for maintaining the stay. If he violates the stay, say "Uh-uh," ask him to sit or lie down on his place, and try again. When your dog can remain while you perform various distracting things, ask him to stay while you go to the front door and pretend to meet someone. Your aim is for him to learn to stay at the door for the entire time you're there.
The next phase in "Go to Your Spot" training is to enlist the support of friends and family to perform fake practise visits. Arrange for someone to come to the door. You will work with your dog to help him remain independent. Prepare yourselves! This will most likely take a long time the first few times. One of two things can happen when you open the door.

1. Sometimes you leave your dog alone while you converse with the person at the door, as if the visitor is a courier or delivery person. Your dog never gets to say hello. (However, you, the person or both of you should frequently toss treats to your dog to reward him for staying.)

2. Invite the person in at other occasions. Wait until the person sits down somewhere, and then release your dog to join you and your guest. When you have a friend help you with a mock visit, be sure to repeat the scenario over and over, at least 10 to 20 times. Practice makes perfect! Have the person come in for 5 to 10 minutes or just pretend to deliver something, then leave for 5 to 10 minutes, then return for a second visit, and so on. Your dog should experience at least 10 visits in a row with the same person. With each repetition, it will become easier for him to do what you expect because he’ll be less excited by the whole routine—especially when it’s the same person at the door, over and over again.
Continue to recruit people to help you practice “Go to Your Spot” exercises until your dog reliably goes to his spot and stays there until you release him by saying “Okay.” At this point, your dog should be able to perform his new “Go to Your Spot” skill perfectly about 90 percent of the time during training sessions. The hardest part for your dog will be going to his spot and staying there in real-life situations, when he hasn’t been able to do a few warm-up repetitions. To prepare your dog for times when real visitors arrive, ask friends who already know your dog well to drop by randomly when you’ll be home. Then ask friends who don’t know your dog well to drop by. With plenty of practice, your dog will be able to go to his spot and stay there, even when neither of you knows who’s at the door!
Eventually, when real visitors come to your home, you can ask your dog to go to his spot as soon as they knock or ring the doorbell. After letting your guests in, ask them to sit down. Wait about one minute before releasing your dog from his spot to greet them. Put your dog on a leash if you think he might jump on your guests or behave aggressively. After a minute or two of allowing your dog to greet people, ask him to lie down at your feet and stay. Give him something to keep him busy, such as a natural chew or a puzzle toy stuffed with something really tasty, like low-fat cream cheese, spray cheese or low-fat peanut butter, frozen banana and cottage cheese, or canned dog food and kibble. After your dog finishes with the natural chew or the KONG, he’ll probably go to sleep. If you repeat the ritual above for a while, your dog should learn to settle down calmly when guests visit your home.

Greeting Barking

If your dog barks at people coming to the door, at people or dogs walking by your property, at people or dogs he sees on walks, and at people or dogs he sees through the fence, and his barking is accompanied by whining, tail wagging and other signs of friendliness, your dog is probably barking to say hello. He most likely barks the same way when family members come home.

Keep greetings low key. Teach your dog to sit and stay when meeting people at the door so that he has something to do instead of barking. This will reduce his excitement level. First teach him to sit and stay when there aren’t any people at the door so that he knows the behaviour well before you ask him to do it with the distraction and excitement of real visitors arriving.

If your dog likes toys, keep a favourite toy near the front door and encourage him to pick up the toy before he greets you or guests. If he learns to hold a toy in his mouth, he’ll be less inclined to bark. (He’ll probably still whine, however).

On walks, teach your dog that he can walk calmly past people and dogs without meeting them. To do this, distract your dog with special treats, like chicken, cheese or hot dogs, before he begins to bark. (Soft, very tasty treats work best). Show your dog the treats by holding them in front of his nose, and encourage him to nibble at them while he’s walking past a person or dog who would normally cause him to bark. Some dogs do best if you ask them to sit as people or dogs pass. Other dogs prefer to keep moving. Make sure you praise and reward your dog with treats anytime he chooses not to bark.

Attention-Seeking Barking

One reason that it’s so easy to live with dogs is that they’re very expressive. They find a way to let us know their needs. They often do this by barking or whining. Indeed, we find it desirable when they bark to ask to go outside to eliminate or to request that their water bowl be filled. It’s less attractive, however, when your dog barks to demand anything and everything, needed or not! This pattern of barking does not happen by accident. A demanding, noisy dog has been taught to be this way, usually not on purpose! To get your dog to stop, you’ll need to consistently not reward him for barking. Don’t try to figure out exactly why he’s barking. Ignore him instead or associate a consequence such as leaving the room. Treatment for this kind of barking can be tough because, most of the time, pet parents unwittingly reinforce the behaviour—sometimes just with eye contact, touching, scolding or talking to their dogs. To dogs, all of these human behaviours can count as rewarding attention. Try to use crystal-clear body language to tell your dog that his attention-seeking barking is going to fail. For example, when your dog starts to bark for attention, you can stare at the ceiling, turn away from your dog or walk out of the room. The instant your dog stops barking, ask him to sit and then give him what he wants, whether that’s attention, play, treats, to go outside or to come in.

Key Ingredient

To be successful, try your best to NEVER reward your dog for barking at you again! In some cases, it’s easiest to teach your dog an alternative behaviour. For instance, if you don’t want your dog to bark when he needs to go out or come in, get a doggy door installed or teach him to ring a bell hanging on a door by touching it with his nose or paw. If your dog barks to get you to play with him, teach him to bring a toy and sit in front of you. Sometimes, it’s easier to avoid problems by eliminating the things that cause your dog to bark. If your dog barks to ask you to retrieve his toys from under the sofa, block the space so that the toys don’t get stuck beyond his reach. If your dog barks at you when you’re talking on the telephone or working on the computer, give him a tasty chew bone to occupy him before he starts to bark.

You can also teach your dog to be silent on command. This will help strengthen the association between quiet behaviour and attention or rewards. Your dog should always be quiet before receiving attention, play or treats. By giving your dog a guaranteed method of getting attention, he’s no longer forced to bark for attention. Regularly seek your dog out to give him attention—sweet praise, petting and an occasional treat—when he’s not barking.

Compulsive Barking

Dogs occasionally become compulsive barkers, meaning they bark in situations that aren’t considered normal or they bark in a repetitive, fixed or rigid way. If your dog barks repeatedly for long periods of time, apparently at nothing or at things that wouldn’t bother other dogs, such as shadows, light flashes, mirrors, open doors, the sky, etc., you may have a compulsive barker. If your dog also does other repetitive behaviours like spinning, circling or jumping while barking, he may be a compulsive barker. To help reduce compulsive barking, you can try changing how you confine your dog. For instance, if your dog is tied or tethered, you can switch to keeping him loose in a safe fenced area, or if he’s left alone for long periods of time, you should increase exercise, mental stimulation and social contact.

If you suspect that your dog is a compulsive barker, we recommend that you seek guidance from a dog trainer or ask vets for help.

Socially Facilitated Barking

Dogs are social animals, so it’s natural for them to bark when they hear others barking. You can discourage this tendency by keeping your dog indoors when other dogs are barking, and by distracting your dog with treats or play when other dogs bark (whether it’s in real life or on TV). Let them out when there is no barking outside.

Excitement or Frustration Barking

Dogs often bark when they find themselves excited but thwarted, or frustrated, from getting to something they want. For example, a frustrated dog might bark in his yard because he wants to get out and play with children he hears in the street. A frustrated dog might bark and run the fence line with the dog next door, or bark by the patio door while watching a cat or squirrel frolicking in his yard. Some dogs bark at other dogs on walks because they want to greet and play, or they bark at their caretakers to get them to move faster when preparing to go for walks. The most effective means for discouraging excitement or frustration barking is to teach a frustrated dog to control his impulses through obedience training. You can teach your dog to wait, sit and stay before gaining access to fun activities like walks, playing with other dogs or chasing squirrels. This can be a daunting task, so you may need the assistance of a Dog Trainer to help you. You can also discourage the presence of cats and other animals in your yard by using motion-activated devices.

What NOT to Do

Do not encourage your dog to bark at sounds, such as pedestrians or dogs passing by your home, birds outside the window, children playing in the street and car doors slamming, by saying “Who’s there?” or getting up and looking out the windows.

Do not punish your dog for barking at certain sounds, like car doors slamming and kids playing in the street, but then encourage him to bark at other sounds, like people at the door. You must be consistent!

Anti-bark collars

Anti-bark collars are punishment devices and are not recommended. This is especially true for barking that’s motivated by fear, anxiety or compulsion. Use of such devices will seriously harm the bond between dog and the handler.

The importance of toys in your dog's life

Thu, 20 Jan 2022 11:54:08 GMT

Why dog toys are crucial for a dog's development

As a dog owner, you're certainly well aware of how excited your dog becomes when they hear the name of their favourite dog toy. Or how much quicker their tail can wag when you bring home a new toy for them to play with. It may also bring us delight to observe how happy our pets are.

Dog toys, particularly natural dog toys, are vital for a variety of reasons. Finally, they create a sense of canine enrichment, i.e., dog toys should prevent canines from chewing your favourite pillows (or shoes in our family!). They give mental and physical stimulation, and depending on the toy, they can distract them long enough for you to get on with other tasks!

Dogs and their toys

We're a dog-loving country! According to studies, we Brits spend an average of £1,150 each year on our furry pals, with the UK as a whole spending about £10 billion per year on our dogs!

This may appear to be a bit excessive, yet it is very common for animal lovers everywhere. How often have we heard that a dog is a "man's best friend"? and it's true! Our dogs become an important part of our family, and as such, they receive the usual birthday presents, Christmas presents from Santa, boredom-busting toys, and more!

A plush dog toy or chewing toy is essential for both them and their owners!

Dog toys give both physical and mental pleasure, as well as reducing destructive behaviour and encouraging rest. When dogs are nervous, playing with a new toy or snuggling with an old toy can help keep them quiet, calm, and preoccupied.

The Importance of Play

Dogs should have access to a diverse selection of appropriate dog toys. Not simply to show how spoilt they are, but also because it can assist with behaviour. Toys are frequently utilised in training as a reward mechanism for excellent listening and obeying orders. This is a fantastic strategy for puppies when we begin to train them to sit and stay, for example, by using the toy as a reward that they then get to chew on and play with after a job well done.

This also helps to keep dogs busy. Dogs must use all of their energy. Of course, nothing beats a nice relaxing stroll, but dogs also like playing with their owners. It's fascinating to play with a rubber dog toy that squeaks every time they eat it in the correct position, for example!

Dog toys also serve to keep dogs entertained and busy. This is useful if your dogs are left alone throughout the day while you are at work, or even if you work from home. They require something to play with, pursue, chew, follow, and so on. Otherwise, boredom can set in, and the alternative is for them to gnaw on something they shouldn't, fling your favourite shoe around the house, or worse!

This is why toys, particularly treat-dispensing dog toys (which we and our dog adore! ), may be effective boredom relievers. The design of these toys focuses on offering mental stimulation and a mechanism to relieve boredom, which (hopefully) decreases the likelihood of harmful behaviour!

With a variety of treat-dispensing toys available, you can mix and match to find the right one for your pet, giving them with endless hours of entertainment and keeping their minds busy and engaged!

Every dog, whether a puppy or an adult, enjoys soft and fuzzy toys at some point in their lives.

When they're puppies, it's crucial to introduce a soft toy to help them cope with being separated from their mother and litter. A cosy toy that kids can snuggle up with and feel safe and secure with. This toy will certainly become their favourite comforter since it retains their scent, and when they are feeling down or unwell, they have their comfort toy to resort to. (It's similar to how kids have comforters when they're young, a favourite blanket or teddy that they use to help them settle and feel protected.)

Your dog will know what they like and dislike. Dogs, like us, know what they enjoy and what they don't. Furthermore, no two dogs are the same. Every dog has their own personality, their own distinct characteristics; whether they are the same breed or brothers and sisters, they are as unique as we are.

For some, having a plush toy to cuddle up to, lick constantly, and care for as if it were their own pet is the finest toy in the world. For others, having something to chew on, something to shred into a thousand little pieces every time they play with it (we have a dog like this, can you tell?!) is the best, most thrilling thing in the world to play with. It's all about getting to know our dogs and experimenting with different toys to find which ones they enjoy the most!

Dogs' energy levels will also differ, influencing the toys they favour.

Again, for others, having something as simple as a noisy rubber duck might provide all of the entertainment they want. For those dogs that are bouncing off the walls, you really can't go wrong with an exciting, entertaining, vividly coloured tennis ball (we really enjoy our natural pink monster tennis ball roller - excellent for Halloween (not that our dog is pampered)!

A little bit of toy ingenuity can go a long way.

We're all having significantly shorter days now that the dark mornings and nights have set in, so we need to keep our dogs busy to avoid boredom and unpleasant behaviour!

Some of the finest dog-friendly games you can play with your dog and their toys are:

Naming their favourite toy

After naming a couple of their favourite toys, you can establish a game by shouting out the item's name and ordering your dog to go retrieve "snowy" from their toy box. This form of play and activity is also fantastic for teaching, and your dog will place value on the toy, making it far more valuable than the others in their box.

Playing hide and seek

Dogs adore this game, which is also highly interactive. Hiding their favourite toy and creating a game out of discovering it can be thrilling and entertaining for everyone – even the kids! It not only keeps your dog engaged, but it also helps you and your dog develop a stronger relationship as you play and interact together.

A tug of war

A dog's all-time favourite. Playing tug of war with a rope pull or unstuffed dog toys is a terrific option for dogs with weak teeth!

Making your own agility course

You may utilise their toys to build an obstacle course in your own home, which is ideal for the most daring dogs in our families. Having them collect and return, jump over ropes, weave in and out of cuddly toys, and slither underneath dining room chairs is not only amazing agility, but also terrific exercise and cerebral stimulation!

Which hand is it in?

Our dog enjoys playing this game with us! It's not only a terrific game for using their brain, but it's also a lot of fun. Hiding your hands behind your back with their favourite toy or even a nutritious treat. Make your dog sit as motionless as possible until you pick a hand. Then gently move your hands around to the front so they may select which hand they believe their treat is in. As the enthusiasm rises, their tails will wag faster!

The three-cup game

Often known as 'find the sweets.' Hide a nutritious dog treat beneath a cup, then mix all three cups together so they're no longer in the same location. Your dog must then chose which cup to select. After finding the correct cup, they are rewarded with a scrumptious, delectable gift!

Natural Dog Toys

Environmentally friendly dog toys are not only good for the environment, but they are also long-lasting for dog owners. Natural dog toys are durable and enjoyable, produced from eco-friendly materials; they are inexpensive, and your pet will enjoy them!

Allowing your dog to make the decision

If your dog is more energetic and sprightly throughout the day, and if you're honest, you might get exhausted simply watching him jump about joyfully because it's the morning and he hasn't seen you all night, then you need to find a method to burn off some of that surplus energy. You can't go wrong with the Air Kong Squeaker Dumbbell for some bouncy fun. This toy floats in water and has a non-abrasive felt that is gentler on your dog's teeth. Plus, with a squeaker inside, playing has never been more entertaining!

You need a toy that motivates dogs to get active if they want to lie around all day, following the sun inside the home! Providing them with a diversion Squeaky toys, such as our cheeky pigs can fly latex dog toy, are ideal. This quirky and amusing toy is robust and features a built-in squeaker to tempt them out of their slump. However, nothing gets a dog going quicker than the prospect of a reward. Kong balls are an excellent method to relieve boredom and provide both physical and mental activity to even the most sedentary pets.

Puzzle toys are ideal for highly bright dogs who not only learn rapidly but also strive to deceive their masters.

How to desensitise your pet to fireworks

Mon, 27 Dec 2021 12:30:05 GMT

Why do dogs react badly to fireworks?

As their hearing is so acute, dogs can find fireworks and other unexpected loud noises stressful. Fireworks go off at irregular intervals, with no warning and no way of knowing how long the loud bangs and whistles will go on for. All of this triggers disorientation, anxiety and distress.

Fortunately, this reaction isn’t inevitable for all dogs. It’s possible to help dogs get used to loud noises so that they eventually have a calmer response. It takes patience and perseverance, but it’s well worth the effort. The reward is a happy, calm pet who can endure the experience of hearing fireworks without feeling distressed and running away to hide.

What is noise desensitisation?

Desensitisation (DS) for dogs is the gradual reduction in reaction to a source of anxiety over time, and counterconditioning (CC) is the changing of an emotional reaction to a source of anxiety, from a negative/anxious response to a positive response.

With fireworks, the process involves exposing your pet to audio recordings of fireworks over a few months, very quietly at first and gradually increasing the volume. To get the best results, we recommended that you start at least six months before fireworks season.

What you’ll need

Before you start, make sure you have the following:

A safe haven: a calm, quiet space to carry out the DSCC training – establish this a few weeks before you begin. You might like to spray the area with a pet-friendly pheromone, which can help ease stress and anxiety.

Audio recordings of fireworks – there are some available from link below.

Some of your dog’s favourite treats and toys

Time to dedicate to the training: you’ll need several sessions a week

How to desensitise your dog to loud noises

When your pet is in their safe haven, start to play the fireworks audio at a very low level – so low that your pet either doesn’t respond at all or reacts by just turning towards the source of the noise. This reaction should only last 10 to 30 seconds.

After each noise on the recording, to change your pet's emotional response to the noise, throw a pea-sized piece of their favourite food onto the floor for them.

Once they’ve stopped showing any signs of anxiety in response to the sounds and seem able to engage in other activities happily while the audio is playing, you can increase the volume. Give your pet 10 to 30 seconds to get used to the increased volume, then start to interact by offering some treats or toys after each loud noise.

When your pet is coping well at the volume you have selected, start to vary the volume more. Make the general trend that the volume increases, but do vary it lower as well as higher, this will give you a better response. Go very slowly; the more time you’re able to take over this, the more likely you are to have a positive result. Keep going until you can play the recording at a volume that mimics the sound level of real fireworks. Reward your dog’s calm response after each loud noise, using praise, play and treats – this will reinforce good behaviour.

Problem solved?

Like any behavioural change, helping dogs respond differently to fireworks can be challenging. However, training your pet to react calmly to loud noises means that special occasions involving fireworks, such as Bonfire Night and New Year’s Eve, should become less stressful for them – and you. If they do still show an anxious response, don’t worry; it’s normal.

How your vet can help

Your vet will be happy to help you embark on a desensitisation programme, so don’t hesitate to contact them. There may be some cases where the noise phobia is severe, and your pet would benefit from the help of a dog trainer. If you have any concerns at all about your dog’s behaviour, discuss them with your vet. They will also be able to check there isn’t an underlying medical reason for their stress, such as a thyroid problem.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AINzMizjDvw&t=1517s

Why dog grooming is important

Fri, 17 Apr 2020 13:08:55 GMT

The importance of dog grooming

A regular dog grooming schedule helps to maintain a healthy coat, help stop hair from matting and will help keep your pooch looking, feeling and smelling great.

No matter what breed your dog is, or the type of coat they have, regular grooming will also keep their skin healthy and provide the coat with a protective barrier and the ability to receive the sensory information they need.

Dog coats that become matted can become extremely painful for your dog as they can start to pinch and bruise your dog as they move. You may notice your dog biting or scratching at their skin because of the irritation or even pain it is causing them. If left untreated, they can also get infected as moisture gets trapped which further inflames the already sensitive skin.

Sadly, a lot of owners think the solution is to wash a dog that is dirty and matted, but that actually makes matters worse which is why professional dog grooming, as well as caring for them at home in between, is so important.

Dog grooming at home

Regular brushing of your dog’s hair in between professional grooms is important to help keep their coat smooth and remove dead hair, as well as the other reasons mentioned above.

A good rule of thumb for brushing your dog at home is to go by the length of their hair – by centimetre. If your dog’s hair is 1cm long then brush them all over once a week, if it is 2cm long then twice a week, 3cms long then three times a week and so on.

Be mindful not to over brush them however, as you can cause skin irritation if you are brushing them to hard or for too long.

Keeping their nails trim is also important in between professional grooms. If you allow their nails to grow too long, they can become painful for your dog when they walk and, if left too long, it can make it hard for a groomer to do the job without hitting the nerve that grows inside of them.

However, if you are unsure about doing it yourself, then you can take your dog into your local groomer to just get their nails clipped, even if you don’t need a full groom for your dog at the same time.

Puppies and grooming

To help ensure your dog does not have a negative experience the first time they visit a professional groomer in an unfamiliar setting, it’s important to get them familiarised with grooming at a very young age and definitely during their critical period of development when you should be introducing them to as many of the life experiences they will go through, and in the most positive way as possible.

Regularly touching and playing with their paws so they are used to them being held and touched will assist with both dog grooming and nail clipping, whilst getting them used to a brush or comb before they get their first professional groom will also help.

Always allow your dog to smell and see the brush or comb first, and ensure you brush your puppy when they are in a relaxed mood.

How often should I get my dog groomed?

Every dog breed is different and therefore has different dog grooming needs. It’s best to talk to your local groomer about what is generally best for your dog breed and work out a professional grooming schedule to suit you and your dog, and maintain regular grooming at home in between.

Our groomers are trained and skilled in all aspects of pet pampering, so you can be confident pooch will leave the salon looking, smelling and feeling furtastic!

Why your dog is pulling on the leash

Thu, 16 Apr 2020 13:33:59 GMT

Stop the leash pull

What's a Dog's Opposition Reflex?

You may have heard that dogs have an opposition reflex but may be wondering what it's all about. To better understand this, let's take a trip back in history. The discovery of the opposition reflex is attributed to Ivan Pavlov (yes, the Russian scientist who discovered classical conditioning). Back then, the discovery was known as the "Freedom Reflex."

According to Pavlov, "We started off with a very simple experiment. The dog was placed in a stand. It stood quietly enough at first, but as time went on, it became excited and struggled to get out of the stand, scratching at the floor, gnawing the supports, and so on. For a long time, we remained puzzled over the unusual behaviour of this animal, until it occurred to us at last that it might be the expression of a special freedom reflex, and that the dog simply could not remain quiet when it was constrained in the stand." (1927, Vol. I, Ch. XXVIII)

If you watch your dog, you may have noticed that when you pull him towards you, he'll instinctively pull away. In the same way, if you pull him when on the leash in a specific direction, you'll notice he'll pull more in the opposite direction. You can't blame him; this behaviour is a reflex. But what causes it exactly?

For starters, consider that this reflex stems from the dog's predatory instinct. Tension causes a dog to instinctively revert to a fight, freeze, or flight mode. When you pull your dog in a certain direction, he may, therefore, freeze (stop), pull more (flight), or fight back (fight).

Add on top of that, the fact that some dog owners unknowingly encourage this reflex to bloom. When they get a puppy, they just put on a collar and leash and allow the puppy to practice the opposition reflex over and over. Then, as the puppy grows, 100 pounds later, the puppy has become a pro at this. Add on top of that, that other than the opposition reflex at play, pulling is rewarding on its own if by pulling your dog gets to meet another dog or gets to sniff that bush full of interesting smells. Soon you'll have the perfect recipe for a dog that pulls and has learned that the more he pulls, the more he'll gain freedom and will never ultimately learn how it feels to walk on a loose leash. This means that, through experience, a dog will come to believe that a tight leash is normal, even if it entails gasping for air.

An opposition reflex beefed up by selective breeding results in dogs like Huskies and Malamutes who really, really love pulling in harness. It is intrinsically reinforcing quite apart from getting where they’re going.

So what can be done to reduce this opposition reflex when a dog pulls on the leash?

The rules of the lose leash walking are the following:

Never walk when the leash is tense and the dog is pulling. Doing so is rewarding the dog by giving him more freedom to walk ahead. Doing so reinforces the pulling. This explains why dogs on retractable leashes pull all the time; basically, they learn that pulling gives them more and more freedom.

Always make heavy steps when your dog starts walking faster and pulling before coming to a complete stop. This way your dog learns that steps are a cue that you're about to stop and starts paying attention to your pace. This helps set him for success as it gives him an opportunity to start slowing down.

Your final goal is to have a dog that no longer pulls and that walks on a loose leash. Some people have different preferences. Some are OK with having the dog walk slightly ahead of them as long as the dog is not actively pulling, others prefer having the dog next to them.

A leash hanging down as if forming a letter "U" is a good sign you are successfully loose-leash walking.

A no-pull harness can help you get started on loose leash walking.

15 Food items to avoid

Wed, 15 Apr 2020 14:02:12 GMT

Food items that are not good for our dogs

The amount of stuff that a dog will consume greatly outweighs the amount it will not consume. As dog owners, it is our responsibility to educate ourselves on foods that may be beneficial to humans but are detrimental to our dogs. Many individuals are unaware that simple food items we consume daily can be lethal to our canine companions. Many of us are guilty of sneaking a morsel of food from the dinner table to Fido without realising the danger. The most effective method to avoid a potentially disastrous situation with your dog is to educate yourself about everyday household food that is toxic to pets. The following list details the fifteen most frequent foods to avoid giving your dog.

Bones: One of our dogs' most frequently given treats are bones. While they may be enjoyable for your dog, they are potentially deadly treats. Splintered bones can easily lodge in the stomach or digestive tract. This can result in significant health problems, including death. Dogs have adapted to becoming omnivores rather than carnivores throughout their history as domesticated animals. There is no safe animal bone to feed your dog as a snack; however, you can purchase counterfeit bones or milk bones without fear.
Chocolate: Most people are aware that chocolate can be lethal to dogs. It is particularly lethal in smaller dogs, as it can result in an increased heart rate and hypertension, resulting in rapid death. Bakers chocolate, gourmet chocolate, and most dark chocolates are lethal to our canine companions. There are additional sources of chocolate to be cautious of, including espresso beans wrapped in chocolate, vitamins, and chocolate-flavoured coffees.
Candy and Gum With Xylitol: Xylitol is a sugar-free sweetener in a wide variety of products, including gum, snacks, toothpaste, and even vitamins. Unfortunately, it's difficult to anticipate the exact amount of xylitol that will cause symptoms because the amount varies by product. It is critical to keep xylitol-containing foods and products out of reach of your family pet. Once a dog consumes even a small amount, it can quickly bring the dog's blood sugar to hypoglycemic levels. If left untreated, hypoglycemia can progress to coma and finally death. Increased doses can result in liver failure and death.
Avocados: Even if you adore guacamole, giving it to your dog as a treat is not a smart idea. Avocados contain a poisonous compound called Persin. While it is not immediately fatal, it can cause severe vomiting, an upset stomach, or a digestive tract obstruction, limiting waste removal. One of the biggest concerns is that the dog may consume substantial seeds and become lodged in the dog's throat or stomach.
Apples: Apples are an excellent snack for dogs since they are sweet, nutritious, and high in vitamins; unfortunately, apple seeds can create significant difficulties. The seeds contain cyanogenic glycosides, which irritate the stomach. There are ways to offer apples to your dog without risking seed ingestion. Apples may be cored and sliced, which is convenient for freezing. Additionally, you can create apple sauce and give it as a healthy topping for dog food. Apples are excellent for your dog as long as they are served seedless.
Onions: Onions are highly toxic to dogs, and even a trace amount can result in hemolytic anaemia, which is typically fatal. Onions contain thiosulphate, which slowly and meticulously depletes your dog's red blood cells. Because onion poisoning symptoms manifest over a period of days, treatment can be extremely costly and time-demanding, frequently with minimal effects.
Dough and Yeast: If you enjoy baking bread, you should keep raw yeast-containing bread dough away from your dog. The stomach provides a warm environment for yeast to ferment, resulting in alcohol formation. When it ferments in a dog's stomach, it becomes exceedingly poisonous and can result in death. Stomach heat works somewhat as an activator for the yeast dough. Even if it is not digested, it can cause severe discomfort and unpleasant gas, which can result in perforated intestines.
Coffee and Other Caffeinated Beverages: Coffee and other caffeinated beverages are frequently seen in households. It can include but is not limited to tea, coffee, chocolate, energy drinks, and vitamins. While most humans are fine with coffee and caffeinated drinks, dogs are extremely sensitive to the chemical. Large quantities of coffee and tea grounds and small amounts of diet pills, weight gain powder, can quickly kill a small dog.
Bacon: It's all too easy to fall into the habit of sneaking bacon to your dog while you have breakfast. Unfortunately, as delicious as it tastes, it can be quite harmful to your dog. Bacon is a high-fat food that can trigger pancreatitis in dogs. Naturally, the size of your dog and the amount of bacon you feed him or her can affect the extent of any potential injury. As with humans, dogs can exhibit a variety of unanticipated reactions. It is recommended that you avoid feeding it to your dog.
Garlic: It is related to the onion, can be up to five times as lethal in a dog. While extremely small amounts may be acceptable, high amounts can be lethal, particularly in Japanese breeds such as the Akita. Garlic consumption promotes the oxidation of red blood cells, resulting in their rupture. Additionally, this results in additional gastric difficulties such as vomiting, drooling, and an extremely irritated stomach. As with onion poisoning, symptoms may manifest many days later.
Raisins, Grapes, and Currants: Even a small amount of these fruits can be lethal to your dog, causing abrupt kidney failure. This also applies to all other grape and raisin-containing items, such as grape juice, raisin-containing nut mixes, bread and bagels, and breakfast cereals. Although the response mechanism in dogs is unknown, symptoms are typically quick and necessitate decontamination with vomit-inducing charcoal and monitoring for any grape family foods consumed by your dog.
Salt: Salt is one of the most often used household food items in the kitchen. It was once considered the gold standard for causing vomiting in dogs, but veterinarians no longer suggest it. Salt dehydrates the kidneys and can result in convulsions, coma, and death.
Macadamia Nuts: Macadamia nuts can induce serious reactions in dogs, the severity of which is dependent on the amount consumed and the dog's size. Symptoms of a reaction include excessive lethargy, a fever, an upset stomach, and the loss of limb function. The macadamia nut's effector is unknown; however, it affects the central nervous system nearly immediately.
Mushrooms: The United Kingdom is home to many mushroom species. While most species are non-toxic to dogs, a tiny number are deemed hazardous and even lethal. Aminta, Galerina, and the Lepiota species are among the most lethal. Numerous symptoms can arise depending on the species of mushroom consumed, including hallucinations, acute hunger, seizures, and difficulty moving. Contact your veterinarian immediately if you notice your dog eating a mushroom and symptoms develop.
Rhubarb: Rhubarb produces delectable fruit, but its leaves are toxic to dogs. Consumption in excess might result in drowsiness, drooling, and weakness. Kidney failure can occur in severe situations.

Conclusion

Our houses are teeming with items that can cause harm or death to our pets. This contains certain meals and plants. Dogs are significantly less discriminating than cats and hence get into more mischief. As dog owners, we owe it to ourselves to educate ourselves about potential dangers to our dogs. As with a toddler, we should create a safe, pleasant, and worry-free environment in our house. If you suspect your dog has gotten into something he shouldn't have and may have been poisoned, contact your veterinarian immediately.

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Why Dog Training Guarantees Can Be a Red Flag – The Truth About Quick Fixes and Archie’s Story

The Allure of a “Guaranteed” Trained Dog

﻿

Archie’s Story: Why Real Dog Training Isn’t an On/Off Switch

﻿ The Hidden Problem with Guarantees

How Aversive Training Tools Work — and the Injuries They Can Cause

1. Choke Chains

Physical risks:

2. Prong Collars

Physical risks:

3. Electric Collars (E-Collars)

Physical risks:

Key takeaway:

Why Ethical Trainers Don’t Offer Guarantees

Positive Reinforcement: The Long Game ﻿

Who Guarantees Attract—

Final Thoughts

Training is not working?

Dog behaviour is more than just a training issues.

Board and Train (Intensive Dog Training) Program

Why the Fairy Tails Board and Train Programme is Your Dog’s Best Path to Success

Dog Parks in London: A Dog's Guide to the City's Green Spaces

Embark on an Exciting Journey to London's Top Dog Parks!

LONDON'S TOP DOG PARKS

Puppy Daycare Benefits: Shaping Happy, Confident Canines

Introducing a puppy to a dog day care

Puppy Daycare Benefits: Shaping Happy, Confident Canines

Building a relationship with your dog

Building relationships

7 core emotions that you should nurture or avoid - positive (+) or negative (-):

What we want versus what the dog wants

Why relationships break down

Two main causes of relationship breakdown are: Frustration and abandonment.

Abandonment

Frustration and over-arousal

Providing emotional support

Games for relationship building

Fun with your dog builds relationships! Working together in a good mood is fun, stimulates learning, and helps you bond.

Casual retrieve

Hesitant retrievers

Playing tuggy

Building value (in some cases only)

Certified Dog Trainer?

Am I a qualified, accredited, registered, approved, certified , and listed dog trainer? ﻿

What does it mean?

Debunking the social media fad.

﻿

Why aren't Office of Qualification (OFQUAL) registered dog training courses offered by dog training education providers?

Dogs reacting to the noises and activities that occur by the door

Protocol for desensitisation and counterconditioning to noises and activities that occur by the door

Dog's Task

Dog sits and relaxes while:

Frustration in dogs - dog training

Leash reactivity is often the result of frustration

Frustration is a negative emotional state implicated in a range of canine behaviour problems.

Frustration breakdown

Fear and anxiety in dogs

Why, what and how for dog training

Anxiety and stress

FEAR VS ANXIETY

Fear

Fear has targets

Anxiety/Stress

Reactivity

FEAR AND EMOTIONAL CONFLICT - A physical response

Dogs experience three emotions:

IT'S ALL ABOUT THE EMOTIONS

GENERALISATION & ASSOCIATION

THE PROBLEM - HOW DO GOOD DOGS BECOME REACTIVE

How did we create the problem

WHERE DID I GO WRONG?

ANTHROPOMORPHISM & UNREALISTIC EXPECTATIONS

LEASH REACTIVITY

DIAGNOSIS PROBLEMS

STIMULUS GENERALISATION

TRIGGER STACKING – SELF-CONTROL DEPLETION

How does trigger stacking work?

THERAPY TREATMENTS MANAGEMENT IMPROVING LIFE

HOW TO FIX THE PROBLEM

The Hidden Problem with Guarantees

Positive Reinforcement: The Long Game

Am I a qualified, accredited, registered, approved, certified , and listed dog trainer?